Journal Outlines

Day

001 – August 12, on plane

002 – Arrive in Hong Kong and relax

003 – Kowloon

004 – Lantau Island

005 – HK Island

006 – Cheng Chau

007 – Kowloon, 10,000 Buddha Monastery

008 – Macau

009 – Plane to Taipei

010 – CKS Memorial, Longshan Temple, Grand Hotel, Taipei 101

011 – Danshui, Ximen, Snake Alley

012 – Yelhiu, Jiofen

013 – Wulai

014 – August 25th – National Palace Museum

015 – Laundry Day, Snake Alley with Magda

016 – Day with Tiffany and family

017 – Tour bus to Taiping National Park

018 – Day with Tiffany and family

019 – Taipei to Hualien

020 – Taroko Gorge on scooter bike, party on beach with fireworks

021 – Highway 11, Shinsantai

022 – Highway 9, Liushidan

023 – Hualien Scenic Coast Route, Goat milk cafe

024 – Mata’ian Wetlands and Sugar Factory

025 – Hualien to Taipei

026 – Taipei to Tokyo to Aomori, guy with geta, sleep on Bench

027 – September 6 – Aomori to Sapporo

028 – Explore Sapporo, to Saroma

029 – Saroma, biking, bit of rain in morning

030 – Saroma to Abashiri

031 – Abashiri and Siretoko National Park

032 – Abashiri to Asahikawa, drinking

033 – Asahikawa, Camping

034 – Asahikawa to Hirosaki

035 – Hirosaki Castle, Apple Orchard

036 – Hirosaki Onsen, Kobeyashi

037 – Hirosaki to Tsuruoka

038 – Tsuruoka and Hagurosan, Taiko Drumming

039 – Haguro to Tokyo

040 – September 19 – Birthday, Tsukiji, Yoyogi, Shinjuku, Roppongi, Karaoke, Walk 10k

041 – Imperial Palace, Harajuko, Tokyo Tower

042 – Sumo Wrestling, Manga kisa

043 – Asakusa, Ueno Park

044 – MOMAT, Nakano, Nekobukuro, Waseda Tram

045 – Godzilla statue, Ebisu Beer, Photography Gallery, Ginza, Akihabara Maid Cafe

046 – Nikko

047 – Harajuko with Aviya, Yoyogi Park, Shinjuku and Fashion shops

048 – Tokyo Game Show, Odaiba

049 – Relaxed around Asakusa

050 – Got things done at the hostel

051 – Ghibli Museum

052 – Kabukiza, Bus to Kanazawa

053 – October 2 – Kanazawa, Garden

054 – Samurai District, Art Museum, Candy

055 – Meditation at temple, Bus to Osaka

056 – Osaka, Kobe, Art festival thing, met Hashimoto

057 – Toured Kyoto with Hashimoto

058 – Toured Nara with Hashimoto

059 – Went to Ramen Museum with Gareth, time lapse photos of and from Observatory

060 – Hiroshima, Miyajima with Hashimoto

061 – Miyajima, Iwakuni, to Osaka with Hashimoto

062 – FILL IN

063 – FILL IN

064 – FILL IN

065 – FILL IN

066 – October 15 – FILL IN

067 – FILL IN

068 – FILL IN

069 – FILL IN

070 – FILL IN

071 – FILL IN

072 – FILL IN

073 – FILL IN

074 – FILL IN

075 – FILL IN

076 – FTakahama, Abandoned Building, Ferry to Fukuoka

077 – Walk around Fukuoka, ACROSS Building, Ramen restaurant, heavy drinking and socializing with Japanese girls

078 – Bus in wrong direction, Ferry to Busan, Party at night in Busan

079 – October 28 – Walk/hike around Busan, Shipping containers, Apartment complex city, up and down mountains, met guy named Dragon

080 – Busan

081 – Gyeongju

082 – Gyeongju

083 – Daegu

084 – Daegu – Haeinsa Temple

085 – Jeonju

086 – Jeonju – Maisan and Tapsa Temple

087 – Seoul (Hong GH) – Relaxing

088 – Seoul (Hong GH) – Bongwonsa Temple, Dongnimmun, Gyongbokgung, Changdeokgung and Secret Garden, Namdaemun Market

089 – Seoul (CS) – Walking around

090 – Seoul (CS) – JP Art Center, Folk Village

091 – Seoul (CS) – ?

092 – November 10 – Seoul (Hong) – DMZ Tour, Seoul Tower

093 – Bus to Incheon, walk around Incheon, Ferry

094 – Day on ferry

095 – Arrive in Qingdao, get winter jacket

096 – Bike around Qingdao, accident

097 – FILL IN

098 – FILL IN

099 – FILL IN

100 – Leonids shower

101 – FILL IN

102 – FILL IN

103 – FILL IN

104 – FILL IN

105 – November 23 – FILL IN

106 – FILL IN

107 – FILL IN

108 – FILL IN

109 – FILL IN

110 – FILL IN

111 – FILL IN

112 – FILL IN

113 – Hangzhou

114 – FILL IN

115 – FILL IN

116 – FILL IN

117 – FILL IN

118 – December 6 – FILL IN

119 – FILL IN

120 – FILL IN

121 – FILL IN

122 – Hanging at hostel, Kevin arrives

123 – Showing West Lake to Kevin, Hefang St, Drinking party at hostel

124 – Hangzhou to Huangshan

125 – Huangshan, laundry

126 – Dry laundry, drinking with Martin, train

127 – Huangshan to Xiamen

128 – Temple, vegetarian food, beach stroll, fort

129 – Gulangyu Island

130 – Botanical Garden, stuff stolen

131 – December 19 – Tour of Yongding Tolou

132 – Drunk in Park of Xiamen, Night bus to Hong Kong

133 – Shenzhen customs, Hong Kong Island, trolley, Lan Kwai Fong

134 – Victoria Peak

135 – Cheng Chau, watched Storm Warriors

136 – Switch hostels, walk around Kowloon, Christmas Eve in Lan Kwai Fong

137 – Walk around, bought camera, night markets, Indian food

138 – Arcade, flower market, other markets

139 – Pier, Arcade, split up with Kevin, Shenzhen, bus to Guilin

140 – Arrive in Guilin, sleep, relax, pig testicles

141 – Bamboo raft, Yangshuo, Guomei on bus

142 – Rice terrace tour with Rory and others, saw ethnic minority show, got married to a girl, Longshen

143 – Reed flute cave, Yangshuo with Guomei, Back just in time for new years

144 – January 1 – Walk around Guilin, Elephant Rock, Solitary Beauty Peak, Seven Stars Park

145 – Relax at hostel, write, train ticket

146 – Train from Guilin to Chengdu, smoking baby, ting bu dong

147 – Arrive in Chengdu, rest at hostel

148 – Renmin Park, Mao statue, Temple, Lotus Market, Tiger claw

149 – Panda Tour, Lunch with Israelis, Nap, Bar with Israelis, Questionable prostitute girl

150 – Antique Market, walking around, relaxing at hostel

151 – Train ticket, Massage, Hot pot with israelis, District 9

152 – Train to Chongqing, walk around, watch Star Wars and went out with Valence

153 – Walk around Chongqing, 3 Gorges Museum

154 – Didn’t do anything, watched Star Wars

155 – Walked up and around, 11 story building, park, checked out the other hostel, got lost

156 – Didn’t do anything

157 – January 14 – Strange Amusement park, Largest public restroom, aliens 3 and ressurection

158 – Batteries, Bank, Book, Reading, Solar Eclipse, Avatar

159 – Tried to see Opera, waited for bus, got on boat to Yichang, on the boat

160 – Most of day just relaxing on the boat, Fengdu ghost city

161 – Flew the kites of the back of the boat, 3 Gorges, Lesser 3 Gorges, Flew kite again off back of smaller boat, Reading

162 – Stop with long boats, guy kicked dog, boat to bus to bus to taxi to hostel, shower, laundry, chating, queen kong

163 – Laundry wet and dirty, waiting, University trip with Queen Kong, Tin Tin and DD, then drinking

164 – Up, chilling in hostel, train to Xi’an

165 – Arrive in Xi’an, Bell Tower, Drum Tower, Muslim Quarter, Grand Mosque, no sweatshirt buying

166 – Xi’an wall, long walk, witnessed fight, pictures with statues, drinking at hostel

167 – Relaxed at hostel, did some research, watched movies, slept early

168 – Too early to buy train to Harbin, Terracotta Warriors, relaxed at hostel, movies, Muslim Quarter for food, drinking game

169 – Relax, Deja-Vu and Men who Stare at goats, movies, got pants mended, sick so went to bed early

170 – January 27 – Street breakfast, no train tickets to Harbin, Walmart and got sweatshirt and peanut butter, doing stuff

171 – Walk to Big Goose Pagoda, took bus back, got tickets to Beijing, reading

172 – No market (couldn’t find it), Small park, large park, boat guy with shovel paddle, walked on outside of wall, boy with whip, dumpling party

173 – Called Maryann, park, skate rink, DVD shop, rice cubes at Muslim Quarter, Terminator

174 – Hung out, wrote a bit of Hemdale, dinner at Muslim Quarter, went to bar street with Doug

175 – Hungover, slept until 6:30 pm, shaved beard into different styles

176 – Nothing

177 – Nothing

178 – Huashan, photos of things on ground, walked along cliff-side path, Yakashi!, phallic statue

179 – Biang Biang Noodles

180 – Relaxed at hostel, went out for dinner with Doug and Justin, got on the train to Beijing

181 – Arrived in Beijing, found Romain’s place, French comics and soccer match, restraunt – Explodes the stomach, Pearl market, hotpot dinner

182 – Superbowl at the Den bar, Millenium Monument and park, slipping around the ice pond, Korean “market”, Line 13 and not seeing the sunset because of pollution, went back

183 – February 9 – Olympic Stadium, no water cube (blocked off), 798 Art District

184 – Qiamen Dajie, No underground city (not running), Hutong area, Wii sports and pasta dinner

185 – Only went out for rice noodles, watched some movies

186 – Amigo mexican food, Nanluogu Xiang, Not able to find tap water museum, 9 movie and photography documentary

187 – Met with Sissi, Fireworks in Houhai, New Year Even

188 – No Lama Temple because too many people, Prince Gong Palace, Beihai Park, The Egg, Wangfujian

189 – Forbidden Palace, Again no Lama Temple because too late, Beijing Duck

190 – Summer Palace, walking on the iced over lake, omelet street food, Ritz-Carlton, great dinner with potato shreds, sweet/sour chicken, tofu

191 – Day at Ritz-Carlton, bath, made fort, Leaving Las Vegas, Indian food, music, coffee, 5 times

192 – Ritz in the morning, Window curtain, Lama Temple, Dumplings, Temple of Heaven, Noodles, bought Hamlet, Romains, took train to Harbin

193 – Arrived in Harbin, Ice sculptures outside station, Home Inn hotel, quick, food, taxi to Ice Festival, Running around, fell on ice, ice, lights, dream like, Great Wall Slide, Promise

194 – Hotel breakfast, search for bus, walk around, arcade, bus back to Beijing

195 – Arrive in Beijing, wrong subway direction, Ran to see Mao before closing, Wangfuxian, Gormet street, Hostel search, YanDaiXieJie, walk around Houhai, Spicy fish

196 – February 22 – Bus 980 to taxi to bus to Simatai Great Wall, amazing time, minibus back, lost Sissi’s phone (later returned by mail), train tickets, Lama hostel

197 – Sissi left, went for train ticket, exchanged subway card informally, coffee in KFC and writing email, curry lunch, got ticket, Romain’s, Battle Royal and The Dark Knight, Russian food

198 – Train to Mongolia, Train food (free!), stop at border at midnight, train leaving, Baatarkhuu

199 – Arrive in Mongolia, like Hoth and Tattooine combined, Hostel picked me up, planning trip, food at mongolian restaurant, relax

200 – Saw official ceremony at Sukhbaatar Sq, Natural History Museum, Mongolian History Museum, Monastery, Fried rice

201 – Guest at English class, S. Sq, Choijin Monastery, Black out at hostel, made omelets

202 – Hockey game in morning, went with Egi to Naraan Tuul Black Market, bought boots and gloves, winter palace, Zaisan hill, watched movies

203 – walked to “immigration office”, none there, wrestling palace, intellectual museum

204 – Long trip in morning to immigration office, bus to airport to walking to officer driving me, laundry, relaxing, party at night with Blade Runner

205 – Left on 2 week tour, Stone hills, herd of gazelles, lunch, donated gasoline to a woman, stayed in ger in rocky area

206 – Driving, took girl to village, white stupa rock area, dinosaurs, camels, stars

207 – Driving, dead horse, flock of vultures, camel with newborn baby, shopping at village, ger in village

208 – Hiking at national park, ice pond and sliding around, first time to dig out car, sandstorm, stayed in windy ger

209 – March 7 – Sand dunes, sand in everything, camel riding, same ger, more prepared for cold

210 – Stuck in the snow bank, took 5 hours to dig ourselves out, ram horn, rocks and mud, random late night ger, buuz

211 – Flaming cliffs, ongiin khiid monastery, looked like Indiana Jones FOA, met other van halfway on trip in middle of desert, random ger, ichinoro kid with no neck

212 – More driving, river rest stop, early arrival at ger, horse riding, waterfall, goat with premature birth, splitting wood, drinking and stars

213 – Snowed in, walked around ger, herded sheep and goats to grass, went back and played cards, chopped wood

214 – Drove to Kharkhoorn, went to main temple, map place on hill, market with shifty guy, private Mongolian music concert with guy from book, Ryo’s goodbye party, lots of drinking and singing, especially Weeble’s Donald fers your trousers

215 – Ryo left, drove to lake, sunset over frozen lake, slid around, played cards in ger

216 – Drove, stopped at a crater, and at a sacred wishing tree, wished for nothing, stopped at random ger, animal shelter, walked to top of hill, Alma talked about Mongolian culture a bit

217 – Drove to nice ger that hosted many tourist on same tour, hiked up mountain and almost slipped and fell, baby goats and sheep, rode horses out into field, retrieved newborn goat and came back, galloped on horse, hiked up mountain again to see sunset, hearts to 100

218 – saw newborn goat in morning, Wild Horse park, Saw 6 horses, movie with weird accent narrator, Got back from trip, shower, relaxing, BDs Mongolian BBQ, Brau Haus pub

219 – Relaxing, checking mail and stuff, St Patrick’s Day, Grand Khan Pub, drinking and singing

220 – Ger building factory, Could not find caribbeaner, got postcards

221 – Went to Black Market to get leather (8500 T), needle (500), thread (1000), started working on bag and design, Indiana Jones Raiders of Lost Ark

222 – March 20 – Sewed together main sections of the bag, watched movies, Big commotion at night

223 – Worked more on bag, got hard plastic at State Department Store, Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom

224 – Updated iPod, Walked to stationary store to get superglue, finished most of the bag, watched Indiana Jones Last Crusade

225 – Updated journal and posted on internet, postcards, finished bag, uploaded photos, generally productive day, downloaded and watched The Fantastic Mr Fox

226 – More laziness, Mongolian BBQ with annoying American “bro” and other people including Japanese girls who were very entertaining, downloaded and watched where the wild things are

227 – Sat around the hostel, ate more buuz, reaching almost the limit of buuz, then got on the train with Julie (France) and the American and Scottish

228 – Train stopped in Erlian, got a taxi to the bus station, got some fried rice lunch, waited a long time for the bus, finally bus left, watched sunset slowly drag out the shadow of the bus, got dinner, sleep

229 – 3 am got to beijing, walked north with Julie to Tianenmen Square, flag raising ceremony with thousands of people at 6, got KFC coffee in Wangfujian, guy talked to us about stuff, Went to Beida to meet Fanny, went to hospital with Alex’s tooth incident, had great soup dumplings for dinner, went to a boat made into a club for some drinks

230 – Met with Weeble and other people at the Leo Hostel, had Muslim lunch together, then drinking at the Sakura bar with weird 67 year old hippie drug smuggler who was annoying and insulting, then went around hostels asking about Tibet, and then I was tired so went to sleep

231 – Heyuan hostel in the morning for tibet people, walked to Jinshan Park, lunch, bookstore stop, Financial street, went to see movie at French cultural center with Fanny but went wrong direction so missed the first part, watched tom and jerry back at the university

232 – Lufthanza store for gnutella as gift, then to the apple store to get headphones replaced, had lunch with fanny, eva and alex, then took a nap

233 – Spring erupted in the form of flowers on trees, I went to Yashow for new sandals and got some for 100, took a nap and relaxed at Fanny’s, read at the university pond

234 – Went to the old summer palace, met a shanghai girl travelling alone, it was a very large park and took a long time to walk around, disappointing ruins, and in the evening had pizza with pierre

235 – April 2 – Took the bus to the Fragrant hills, only thing fragrant about it was myself, fried rice, hiked up, went down, relaxed at fanny’s

236 – Took the morning train to Chengde, everyone but me sleeping on the train, went to the hotel to check in, then went to the palace, through the palace to the park, all was not very exciting, waterwheel, “gers” fake and made of cement, some deer, then in the evening spent a long time trying to find dinner and then went to a bar with an alright atmosphere, very quiet

237 – Chengde – Temple like Potala palace (a lot smaller), hiked to thumbs up rock, took the cableway down, bus station and really delicious dinner, jelly beans

238 – Relaxed with fanny, coffee and philosophical conversations about freedom, walked around the university, raining, went to 3.3 to talk with alexa about Tibet, found out she grew up near the Lucky’s in Los Altos

239 – Slept in, then went to Jinshan Park, worked a bit on the bag, watched Tom and Jerry

240 – Went with fanny for coffee, relaxed in the university park, made a bug house on the lawn, went to the quiet bohemian coffee shop, watched south park, had a large kaoya dinner, went to D-22, went to sleep

241 – Coffee for breakfast and talked to journalist friend about Mongolia, Said goodbye to Fanny, barely made it to the train station by rickshaw, train was luckily delayed, hit head very hard on the luggage rack in the train, and had an expensive dinner because I didn’t bring food, then I couldn’t get to sleep because a guy was snoring very loudly next to me

242 – Got to Xining, found hostel but with a tiny bit of difficulty like usual, planned stay in Xining, watched Waterworld, napped, other guy snoring like a cartoon, very amusing but took a while to get to sleep again

243 – Found a German, Simon, to go on the trip with me, and could leave in a few days instead of a week, arranged trip

244 – In the morning found out that Simon cancelled his part of the trip, but paid my part so it was still the two person price, went to the monastery in BeiShan, it was into the cliff, but it was closed, hiked up and down the mountain, and in the evening went to the “night market”, no bar, not so fun, returned to the hostel

245 – Went to the Mosque in the morning, not so interesting, bought 12 yuan shoes, went to the night market again in the evening with no success

246 – Waited in the hostel, listened to podcasts, cleaned out emails, took the wrong bus, train was 2 hours late, beggars approached me in the station but I didn’t understand them, some argument broke out between a guy and a cleaner, police searched train with flashlights, girl traded seats with me on the train

247 – beatiful mountains in the morning, spilled my instant noodles onto a guy, met guy named Tserin and asked him about Tibet, played war, got new cards, read, podcasts, arrived in Lhasa, no one checked permit, guide took me to hotel, I got some dinner, saw earthquake news, went to sleep

248 – Coffee, Tea in hotel, Got breakfast with Happy, tea with breakfast, met two other tourists we were joining, went to the Jokhang Temple, Happy explained statues and paintings, Roof workers singing, walked around Barkhor square, Sichuan lunch, walked to a “river” dried up, past a stadium with military people, went to the Sera Monastery and watched the monks debating, then in the evening went to an expensive bar

249 – Potala palace in the morning, lunch with Happy’s friend, went to park in front of Palace, people looking at me, went to park in the back of the palace, ten went to Norbulinka, 4 animals story, relaxed at park, conversations with Happy, met his wife

250 – In the morning went to the Ani something nunnery, got breakfast there, then went to large shops in Barkhor for a commission we shared, met with another guide to go up a hill, couldn’t get very far, candles layed out in room, got some barley wine, went back to the hotel, went drinking with Wei

251 – Went back to Jokhang with Wei, relaxed with people at his hostel, then went to the park with Happy after a short stop at a school, “lake”, swimming pool, returned and said bye to Happy, went drinking with Wei again

252 – Had breakfast with a writer/poet/singer/painter Scott, took the bus to the train, nothing eventful on the train

253 – Music war in the morning, got food gifts from the tibetans on the train, relaxed the whole day, and read, ipod ran out of batteries

254 – went to buy bus tickets, walked back, drank with swedes and girl from tacoma

255 – spent day at hostel, went out for food, got some things done

256 – went to the bus station, almost missed bus to lijiang, swervy road, stopped several times, hard to sleep, watched movies on bus

257 – Arrived in Lijiang, walked to hotel to check in, beautiful old town but touristy, family dinner

258 – At breakfast I was overfed by eating other peoples breakfasts, Lion hill park, view from pavilion, snuck into Mu’s Palace, went back to the hostel, had a cheap inner

259 – Rented bike, rode to the Black Dragon Pools, banjo and accordian players, monk tried to scam me into paying at temple, 4 person minimum up mountain but hiked up anyway, started raining, stopped for lunch, biked through the rain, touristy Shuhe village, road of lost soles, Baisha village, cool brick houses, old town

260 – Since I was tired I spent most of the day at the hostel, walked around town, nature exhibit with before and after pictures, went out dancing with swedish guy and denmark

261 – Got on bus to the train, said bye to John the english guy who worked at the hostel, just made the train to Kunming, very long train 12 hours, only had a banana and 2 cups of water, guy with muffled voice, kids yelling, no room to move around, got to hostel and checked in, had weird tasting beef noodles (pasta?)

262 – Big headache, took half the day to find a bookstore, Chinese restaurant with real beef noodles, met some bikers, relaxed and slept at the hostel, tiger balloon floating away, had some shepherds pie.

263 – Got up early to get to Shilin, couldn’t find bus to East bus station, got minibus, met italian girl, shilin, eternal mushroom rock, kind of like that age in riven, felt terrible, went back, didn’t buy 2 yuan oranges, didn’t buy 15 yuan oranges at hostel, Park N Shop was amazing, and 3 oranges for 1.8 yuan. relaxed at the hostel.

264 – Park N Shop again, saw a small parade, got bus ticket and left early at 16:15 for my bus at 18:30, bus to train station took long, then the bus 154 to the south bus station took 2 hours so barely made the bus to Laos

265 – headache was bad again, and the bus ride was long and bumpy, exited China and entered laos, forgot the photo for the visa in the bus, $38 for the visa, guy with smelly feet made trip difficult, saw a motorcycle accident, got to Luang Prabang, couldn’t find hostel, took the tuk tuk to another hostel, stayed there and got free noodles, drank a bit too

266 – sweet coffee in the morning, walked around town, many smells, checked into other hostel, saw some shiny cars, saw monks trimming a tree, rested to feel better, went out to movie – bad heart / fantastic mr fox

267 – got up to see the monks receiving alms, tourists with starbucks shirt giving alms, went to the morning market, walked around taking photos, went to wat xiang thong, king ghidorah statues, went water tubing, went to the bus station with kate and adam to hand out flyers, went out to the disco for dancing in the evening

268 – Lunch at the bakery, walking around with sweden and canada, small cafe across river across bridge, family dinner, watched another movie at l’estranger – lovely bones

269 – woken by beautiful girl, drunken, asked me to set alarm for “5 10”, at 5:10 I woke her up using the wrong name (Stephanie instead of Louise), went to waterfall, figured out she meant “5 to 10”, relaxed at waterfall, swam around, rope into pool, stood on truck all the way there and back, another family dinner – hot pot, sunset on phousi hill

270 – got up early, relaxed ,sent winter clothes home, very hot, backpack weighs about 6 kg, i didn’t do much besides that

271 – tagged along up to Pak Ou Caves, no tourists so boats charged more, tried to ford the river and got ipod and wallet wet, caves were not impressive in the end, went to shiskey village, bear whiskey, candy tasting whiskey, passed by wedding, went to the bar, had a good time, felt pretty drunk so went to bed

272 – Worked on Shampoo’s website the whole day, he was happy with it, hive bar in the evening? no, instead went to dinner with an israeli guy who was very impressed with my trip

273 – I was lazy for most of the day, got shampoo’s website up and taught him how to use it, just relaxed the rest of the day

274 – took bus to Vang Vieng, nice comfy bus and got shotgun seat, arrived, went to banana bungalow, found marika and kieren already there, went tubing with them, got buckets of whiskey mix, did many trapeze tricks, did the superman flip I learned as a kid, but the distance to the water was greater and ended up doing a pretty harsh belly flop that stunned me (and bruised my face later), floated down the river a ways, went to another bar, paid twice as much for the tuk tuk back because he wouldn’t give me change, got dropped off at a place i didn’t know, felt annoyed and in a bad mood, couldn’t find anyone I knew, just got dinner and went to bed

275 – sandwich breakfast and free wifi with it, slept around, walked up the river, found junk but nothing worth saving, walked back down and wallet that was in a bag started to float away, took off sandals because they made me slow and ran after it, stepped on something really sharp, kayakers retrieved my money and key, went back to room and dressed the wound, tried to go out and party but after the loss of blood and having a huge dinner i felt physically bad so went back and slept

276 – Huge lightning storm during the night, shook the hut, caused a power outage, morning got up and relaxed, foot rebandaged, returned sandals i had bought for much less than i bought them, went to the ATM and as i was looking at how much money i had, the refund 20k kip fell out and some woman picked it up and drove off with it, went out partying, got a free bucket at Q Bar, then went to sunset bar, and played ping pong at some other bar, and went to bucket bar, then limbo bar, got bored of watching drunk people limbo under fire and returned

277 – Got breakfast and checked out, took the public bus with Alison, Jack and Shanty, arrived in Vientiene, guesthouse hunting, phonesomething place, went in search of food and found some good indian food, Elaine joined us, mini mart, saw jason australia and he mentioned Sunset bar, sleep

278 – Went to the Scandinavian bakery in the morning, swapped hotels for Mixay, went to the morning market and night market, walked around and enjoyed chatting and making jokes about stuff we saw, got lunch, back to the hotel, dust storm, tried to go to sunset bar but tuk tuk didn’t know it, played cards and watched lightning at the hostel

279 – rented bikes and rode with elaine to the that luang gold temple, high five “buddha”, kids with bugs, internet cafe, biked to sunset bar and found it, relaxed, went out for dinner with jack and shanty, met creepy guy again

280 – went with Elaine to the THai embassy, got there too late for her to apply for her visa, got a small ice cream at french place, went back to the hotel and relaxed, went out bowling in the evening

281 – checked out, packed for elaine and brought her bags downstairs because she was at the embassy, went to That Dam black stupa, got a slushie, biked with elaine to some food, said goodbye, got on the bus and left for Phonsavan

282 – arrived in Phonsavan with guy from Denmark, tuk tuk to Kong Keo guesthouse, slept, motorcycle trip with Johan, went to Plain of Jars site 1, not that impressive, cool small cave, on the road again, crater village, internet cafe, back, watched kids play soccer game, dinner at crater restaurant

283 – Took bus back to Luang Prabang, walked to LPBH, relaxed, did not go out at night, just stuck around

284 – made a to do list, did a few productive things, helped make shampoo’s brochure, went tubing, laundry, big fondue bbq dinner, lao lao garden bar but they made me pay for two drinks

285 – Helped shampoo with website, lunch with english girls, dinner with neighbors and had a hot chili that seemed to make my stomach hurt, went to utopia

286 – Took minibus to Luang Nam Tha, long ride, extra 10km to town from bus that minibus driver took us, guesthouse zuela right there, tour hunting, chris joined us (anita, matt and reuven) dinner at the night market, stomach still hurt, returned

287 – Got up, prepared, set out for the jungle, first tuk tuk to the market, then start of path, hiked, small hut relaxed, jungle, sandals were a bad idea, lots of stucks on the path, walking stick carving for anita, lots of bugs, not many animals, ate stuff on leaves on a big banana leave table, easy to lose the trail if you were not in front of people, got to the waterfall and campsite, shack, fish hunting, told some stories, stung by bee, hard to sleep, cramped

288 – food on leaves again, bees in the morning everywhere, hiking, snake, didn’t see monkey, singing, big trees, feet hurt a lot, crossed streams, lao bank hole in ground, rain, pain, leeches, small village, shooting the fish gun with siton, finally made it, tuk tuk back, night market, couldn’t sleep because itches

289 – morning market to buy shorts, podcasts, updated journal, tried to find postcard, bought tiger balm, got really good indian food, watched tractor music video advertisements in night market, chatted for a while, made some lao lao coffee

290 – got bus in morning, listened to Anita’s ipod, back to LPBH, free pickup!, got back, disco night, got really drunk and danced a lot, protected shampoo’s sister from an extremely drunk quebec guy named bobby, got back to hostel and bobby passed out so i put some water and trash bag next to him

291 – relaxed, wrote postcard, got some stuff done, sorted pictures, helped set up wireless for shampoo

292 – doodled some hemdale, relaxed

293 – tried to deliver postcard and failed, went to picnic, lost bowling horseshoes game, realized the Vientiane plan would not work, went to night market and bought some things for me and Sissi (meeting in Hanoi), changed plans and was going to go to phonsavan instead, slept

294 – Picked up visa for vietnam, no extension to laos, minivan, finally had my music back, admired the Laos clouds, Phonsavan, got a 20k kip accomodation, room was about what i paid for, walked to bus station to buy ticket, awesome fried rice, beat solitaire in 2:11, interesting shower at the guesthouse (9:00 LP -> 17:00 PV)

295 – Phonsavan (6:30) to Vinh (17:30), Vinh (22:00) to Hanoi (5:30). Bus, trance music video of western clubs and girls, long winding bus ride, girl threw up, japanese guys, got to vinh, got night bus with japanese guys, ATM search, beer, syringe on ground, thought bag was stolen on bus, not really, narrow bed

296 – arrived in hanoi after 26 hours on bus, local bus, checked in, no water, nap, walked around, saw lake, temple, turtle tower, hung out with taro, beer, dinner, philosophy talking, early to bed

297 – checked into other hotel, amazing roof room for 5 dollars, met with scott, had coffee, searched for map, beer, lunch, back to hotel, relaxed, met Lan Anh, went to mime show, had seafood dinner, went to rooftop bar, met english girls from Lao again

298 – motorcycle research, walked around city, flamingo guys, ?

299 – water puppet show, walked around more, had dinner with scott, didn’t go to the party and instead fell asleep

300 – Halong Bay tour, bus to city, at souvenier shop i helped build a wall, disorganized and confusing tour, shoved around like cattle, upset girl who was pressing charges for harrassment, blue shirt guy, discover oz (or 02), beatuiful bay, boat into bays for a bit of money, kayaking later at night, went to a cave like in Guilin, penguin trash can, dinner, swimming, karaoke, relaxing on deck, sleep, big storm at night, leaky roof, no water in room, took shower in rain, smelled very bad.

301 – woke on boat to more rain, small breakfast, Cat Ba National Park, hiked up slippery muddy path, rusty tower, returned, cat ba bay, lunch, no monkey island, walked to the peninsula, three beaches, town, stubbed toe, chilled with kids in hotel, had dinner, no night market, had beer with girls

302 – woke, got back on boat, back to halong, lunch, back on bus, kid threw up, back to hostel, relaxed, more motorcycle research

303 – At 11:30 started out to Felix’s garage and got there about an hour later, met alex who was 1.5 years on the road in the opposite direction, felix was nice, decided on a wave and bought it for 300 + 50 for helmet and map and bungees, 6:00 met with okinawa girls betty and lulu, hung out with them for the rest of the evening, pain to get scooter into hotel

304 – Checked out of hotel, met with Felix for lunch, vegetarian lasagne, chatted, semi-planned rout, checked into other hotel for parking, hung out with dutch guy Bart, found travel partner vincent, arranged to meet later

305 – 5:00 started driving in the general direction and got a little lost, but found the main road, spedometer broke, $2.5 to fix and new odometer, coconut bread, stopped for dog meat soup, dog nose in soup, family really liked me, hung out with the kids there, took me to a cheap hotel, phone translation, walked around town, girl used phrasebook to practice english, innocent kids, dinner with them, tour with father and daughter, slept

306 – breakfast with family, drive to sapa, xe may to replace turn signal knob, pedal, and washer, mountain view hotel, Lee promise to buy from her, Bart and chinese girl and malaysian girl, dinner and beer

307 – Walk to Cat Cat, 500k bill rip off because it was “cut”, then battery rip off, 50k lost, cat cat, stone carving place, pestle water thing, rice terrace, followed river, went up mountain train, into someone’s farm area, xin ciao village, dead snake, long walk, money children, white mix girl?

308 – went motorcycle riding with bart, south east villages, very rocky/muddy road, broke sandals, hurt foot, motorcycle misfunctioning gears, replaced tire, overcharged food, back, met up with vincent, chilled, invited to homestay, bia hoi, baby bird snack

309 – shoemergency, lock for bike, breakfast with bart, market with vincent, neil, eve, hike to house, weed field, butterflies, awesome food at house, played with kids, fast clouds, relaxed, slept

310 – hiked up to see a bit of the valley, hiked back to sapa after lunch, nice chats along the way, made it back, had dinner, watched football and had beer with vincent, free postcards from Lee

311 – Breakfast with bart, got a shave, bye to Lee, traffic ticket going wrong way, got other tire replaced and petrol, bike broke down, spark plug and then fuel filter thing, beatiful roat to sin ho, arrived and checked into nha nghi, walked around town, rare rainbow – circumhorizontal arc, football and dinner, woman brought form while i was halfway through taking a shower

312 – left early from sin ho, drove south towards tuan giao, along the way had lunch with construction workers in their camp, drinking ant repellant and eating very bad tasting food, glasses to old man chef, bad road, went to tuan giao route, rain so stopped, then had motorcycle crash, slid out on a sharp left turn, 600k for bus, 50k for hospital to clean wounds, 20k for gas, 150k hotel, couldn’t find a new knife

313 – used internet cafe, drove all the way to mai chau, stopped for tea and ice cream, checked prices of hotels, too expensive, found nha nghi for 100k, beautiful room, walked around area, had beer and watched football, came back, had dinner with the family, family medicine 100k, bugs, people having sex next door, hot, got no sleep, watched jingle all the way on hbo with the volume off

314 – left, beautiful mountains on the way out, then very bad road to ninh binh, potholes, etc, found NB train station, internet cafe to find hotel, rested at hotel, went to market to find a map/knife but didn’t find either, went to the park with nothing in it, dinner was also hard to find but finally got some noodles

315 – got gas, then went to post office, said to return later, went to Tam Coc, easy, parked for too much, old man rowing me, 70 years old, helped him to row with a small paddle, beautiful area, counted together in vietnamese, tipped him because he asked, though not much, and he was fun, drove back, sent stuff from post office, went back and relaxed

316 – left after “waiting for the ipod charger”, went back to hanoi, hanoi youth hotel, saw bart again, went for food and beer, visa extension, tried to get it done by the immigration office but they wouldn’t do it, travel agency could get it done in 4 days, dinner with various people, steve’s wallet was pickpocketted by a prostitute while he was joking around with her? something like that

317 – relaxed in Hanoi, bought map, walked around with Bart, couch surfing meeting with Hoa and Bart and Fela, went out for drings afterwards at the “BigChurch”

318 – Met with felix in the morning, he fixed my bike mirror and breaks complimentary but did not fix the gears slipping, hoa and friends in the evening, double tree art gallery, drove along west lake, dinner, pre-hatched eggs, snails, weird drink, escorted people home, invited to trip, told hoa i liked her

319 – woke up early, relaxed, had a sandwich, waited for the visa extension, met vincent briefly, went to meet hoa, had 2 dinners, took a car to the bus, and the bus to Mong Cai

320 – arrived in Mong Cai, seafood and noodle breakfast, bus to boats to island to van to beach, ran on beach, walked around beach for a while, hurt feet in ocean, camera out of batteries, lighthouse, Ling, flirting with Hoa, lunch, dinner seafood, Hoa cracked the crabs, campsite, swimming, boats, walk on beach with Hoa, raining at night

321 – Woke to more rain, stopped raining, breakfast, van to boats, rain coats, back to Mong Cai, border to china at most eastern part of Vietnam, walked on the wall, to Hoa’s house, shower and sleep for a bit, relax, went out to the beach again, swam and got pummeled by waves, great dinner with everyone, back to house to sleep, tried to get Hoa’s cousin and Thao together

322 – Morning went to market, C.K. shirt, back to the house for a bit, rested, out to the beach again, again attacked by waves, inner tube with Hoa, got a bit of food, then got dinner with the family, cops pulled over the bikes, Hoa’s mother unleased a storm of fury, had a great dinner, got on the bus back to Hanoi

323 – Hoa and I chatting on bus, arrived back in Hanoi, sleep at Hoa’s apartment, goodbye to Hoa, dropped off Ling at the bus stop, biked to hotel, Manh Dung hotel again, waiting for Sissi, finally met her, relaxed in hotel room, out for “expensive” beef steak dinner and beer, back to the hotel, arranged to meet Hoa again in the morning to say goodbye again

324 – went to meet Hoa at 9:30 but she thought at night, back to hotel, then back to Nola’s cafe by bike, goodbye drama with Hoa, back, Sissi and I packed onto bike, left, trouble finding the Ho Chi Minh trail, made out way down the trail, helmet shield falling off, in Tho Xuan we stopped in a Nha Nghi, trouble finding dinner

325 – early morning headed off, ran out of gas, pushed bike, filled up 3 times, drove 300 km over about 13 hours, starter motor died, hammock, no lights, hitting so many butterflies, ended up around Phoen, asked for Nha Nghi, found smart girl to help us, took us to a town, cheap, sunburned

326 – met girl outside hotel, went to downtown for breakfast and to call sissi’s parents, continued driving, Dong Ha, stopped for Nuoc Mia and an apple, got to Hue late, found a nice hotel, slept

327 – Went to Forbidden city, much better than Beijing’s, ruins, peaceful, walked around citadel area, bought shirt for Sissi, went back for a rest then to Royal Tombs, just a big weird park, met a girl who was a student, spoke a bit of english, took us to her apartment, then to dinner, then to the pagoda, then home, her name was Thic? very nice

328 – Drove to Danang, started early but had a flat tire, didn’t want xe may so went down road and creepy guys called the same xe may, continued, couldn’t find hotel in Danang so went to China Beach, lots of luxury resorts, found a cheap Nha Nghi but they charged by the hour, I felt bad, Dr. Sissi, put me under covers to make me very hot and sweat a lot.

329 – Still had fever, shower, went to beach, relaxed with Long and his mother at their stand, found money on beach (might have been Sissi’s), walked down beach, walked back having snacks along the way, got into arguments, sleep

330 – got up early, sunrise, forgot passport, ride to hoi an, great hotel – Nguyen
Phuong, walked around old city, came back and slept, argument, angry

331 – early, went to old city again, postcards, an hoi islet, not much, cam nam
island, back to hotel, zorok beer, motorcycle to My Son, explore, sissi’s butterfly
phobia, crashed bike again, mechanic ripped us off, 1 million dong

332 – checked out, bike repair with hotel guy, updated journal, fixed pen, left
late, rain so stayed at a cafe, crossed the river on a boat ferry, got dark, asked
locals for hotel, too far so stayed with a local family, had dinner with another
family, policeman registering our stay, hard bed with mosquitos

333 – left very early, ho chi minh trail, wrong direction for 30 km, instant noodle
breakfast, could not make it to Kon Tum so stayed in a hotel in a  smaller city, had
dinner at the hotel restaurant, nothing in town

334 – drove to buon ma thaot, made very good time and found a hotel just before bad
rain, went out for food and supermarket, chicken rice, came back and relaxed

335 – left for Nha Trang, had a flat tire so replaced wheel because it was worn,
searched for a hotel in NT for a long time, finally the last one we checked was
good: Blue House, went to the beach for just a bit, went out to find food, could not
decide on a place, finally got fruit juice and then a sandwich

336 – Walked around beach, relaxed, booked tour of islands, went to “pagoda” which
was just a temple, got some bread and fruit juice, (then ooked the tour), then went
to the beach and walked a long way down, cloudy, went for Indian food and it was
very filling

337 – Went on the 4 islands tour, first a bus to the boat, aquarium island which we
did not attend the aquarium, butter shake not available, then went to snorkeling
island, which was more just swimming, then to lunch island, floating bar very nice,
then to beach island, irish guy who suggested bokor hill, israeli girl who looked
like Liana from italian class, came back, went out for mexican food, finished with
some bubble tea

338 – left Nha Trang early, lunch at a bus stop, rouch road and then nice road,
Dalat, found a hotel, went to the “crazy” house, creepy but unimpressive, saw a
ghost?, vegetarian food, sleep

339 – early, summer palace, waterfall, roller coaster, railway station, flower
garden, dropped ice cream, valley of love, walk around, back, vegetarian sandwich,
fever

340 – slowly got up and left dalat, stopped for pho, lots of busses and trucks on
20, cafe, charged 100 then we got them to lower it to 45, worked our way closer to
HCM, rain, wet, stopped in hotel just outside downtown

341 – Up, not feeling well, went downtown and found cheap hotel, started walking to
Independence Palace, heavy rain, toured the palace, walked around, church, saw
wedding, post office, opera house, walked back, some other building

342 – went out to War Museum, very depressing, then to the pagoda but just passed
outside, worked a bit more on selling the bike, taught sissi to ride bike,  went out
to get pizza, bought fear and loathing book

343 – breakfast, selling bike, sold bike to photographer matt belton for a friend of
his in district 8, for 125, waited at hotel, volunteered to go and help teach
children english at a school, bus was late, got on bus to Chau Doc

344 – bus arrived in Chao Doc, ran after guy to hotel, breakfast and photo, bus to
boat, boat up river, relaxed, went through visa stations, extra 2 months revoked,
another long ride up the river, slept, bus into city, accident with motorcycle, tuk
tuk to hotel at the lake side

345 – switched hotels from sister 9 to floating island, got bikes, rode to watt
phnom, independence monument, malaysian embassy (closed), royal palace (closed),
lunch, russian market, stationary store, raining so stayed in store, got raincoats
for .50 and biked through rain back to hotel, dinner at same cheap place, sissi went
for beer somewhere while i slept

346 – went to malaysian embassy with Sissi, then to royal palace, walked around the
whole place before finding entrance, expensive, travel agency after, lunch at the
market, tuk tuk to killing fields, killing fields, depressing but not very
informative, back to the hotel and slept

347 – Sissi picked up visa, breakfast at hotel, shopping disagreement, bus to Siam
Reap, got to SR, tuk tuk arranged to garden hotel, once we decided on the room it
was taken by anoother guest, searched for other place, saigon hotel, arranged next
day with tuk tuk guy Bon Heak, visited market, curry

348 – got up early at 4:30, saw the sunrise at Ankor Wat, $40 entrance fee, tuk tuk
between each of the main temples, just did the short main circuit, [list temples],
finished at noon (was $15 and tipped $1), bought postcard, walked around town, at
night went to concert Beatocello, saw bon heak and he took us there for cheap, we
walked back

349 – rented bikes, biked to temples, larger circuit, ate bread and water, [list
temples], little kid tried to be our tour guide for money, other kids selling
flutes, books, scarves, etc, went to watch sunset on the hill temple, poor sunset,
biked back, bought the night bus to sihanoukville, ate at a cheap place, rained

350 – biked to Roulos, saw 2 main temples and one smaller one, back through
countryside, bad roads, saw the countryside, everyone yelling “hello” to us, saw
small festival and donated money, back to SR, Sissi got massage, got on the night
bus, trouble sleeping

351 – arrived very early in Sihanoukville, walked to the beach/hotel area, checked
out places and found room and slept, walked up and down the beach, very dirty, sat
down for beer, Sissi started drawing, left bar after they turned on loud music, back
to the hotel, I felt bad so I slept, Sissi went out to get pizza and brung it back,
and also she bought the ticket to Kampot

352 – shared taxi (not minibus), to kampot, walked all over town, checking prices,
small town, Pepper guesthouse, just relaxed, captain chimes restaurant, grilled
steak, went to supermarket, heavy rain so stuck at the market

353 – slept in a little, breakfast, searched around for Bokor hill tour prices,
relaxed at hotel, went to the supermarket again, booked the tour through the hotel,
relaxed, backed up and uploaded pictures, updated journal

354 – 8:00 got on bus to Bokor Hill, switched to truck, hiking in the jungle for an
hour and a half, truck picked us up magically, took us to the abandoned buildings,
very cool, had a few hours to walk around, explored farther buildings, walked
through tall grass and wet ground, good pictures, truck again, hiking again, truck
again, Kampot. had very fast lunch and rejoined tour for sunset cruise, shells on
beach, armada of fishing boats, came back

355 – morning made the mobile of shells, took afternoon bus to keep, after arriving
took boat to rabbit/Tonsay island, with english girls, girl who was very much like
Carrie M, waves were pretty bad in the boat ride, the island was very nice, cloudy
and relaxed on the beach, finished reading fear and loathing, walked around beach,
dinner with the group

356 – peanut butter breakfast, walked around island, tough path, lost group going
wrong direction, helped them, finally circumnavigated it all, lunch with spanish
girls, back to relax, went out to dinner with the group, beach fire, lights out as
we were walking back

357 – rain in the morning, stopped and took the boat back, poor boat parking annoyed
me, bus to phnom penh, no night bus to ratanakiri, walked to bus station, bought
morning ticket, hotel nearby for $7, spent night, watched hancock, hard to decide on
dinner

358 – bus to ratanakiri/ban lung, fried spider stall, long, bumpy past Kratie,
arrived, a mob of people trying to sell us hotels, one guy took us around to a few
hotels, best one was booked, finally found a hotel and went to sleep early

359 – cold shower, got bikes, switched hotels, went to travel agency run by Chico,
arranged tour for next day, biked to Crater Lake, walked around, terrifying ants,
switched bikes, biked to waterfall, small rain, hawk and monkey at entrance, not
very impressed by waterfall, biked back, dinner and drank with chico, had snake

360 – tour gem mines, isaac/sokah tour guide, searched through piles of dirt for
gems and rocks, lunch in BL, minority villages, further minority village, another
waterfall, playing with camera ISO, came back and relaxed at hotel, watched City of
Ember, dinner in market, drinking with Chico, “Chico’s Bistro” gave him postcard
ideas, fruit shakes with rice wine

361 – bus in the morning, front seats, baby birds captured, Sissi got upset at
lunchtime, got off the bus in Kampong Çham, I continued to PP, hotel, Indian food,
Internet, Sissi arrived at the door after her adventure, dramatic talk, headache and
sleep

362 – breakfast and journal, out to market, got scarf, postcards, shirt, pens,
notebook, button, then sewed pants, had chinese food, found cheap internet,
showered, expenses, lok lak dinner

363 – relaxed at hostel, Sissi’s cross stitch flew away, making her extremely upset,
to calm her i donated my scarf to her wallet project, made things better, went to
the market again to look for presents, fake ipod, tweezers, cheaper internet place,
back and indian food

364 – relaxed, went to the riverside to look for good pizza and currency exchange,
didn’t find pizza, came back and had one lakeside, few drinks, good night except
couldn’t sleep until very late

365 – Said goodbye to Sissi, AS, read, internet, had fried noodles for dinner, went
to sleep early

366 – relaxed at the hotel, planned money and lunch at indian place, met a weird
hippie expatriate,read 20,000 Leagues under the sea

367 – Moto to airport, airport tax$25, lost scissors, wine opener, shampoo, Lost $2
singapore to Khazak guy stuck in airport supposedly, singapore, culture shock, easy
to hostel, walked to downtown singapore, walked around the arab quarter, then the
marina area, along the river, up to the Bugis area, found a cheap shop and bought
terrible noodles, and apple juice, walked back to the hostel, watched some bad
movie.

368 – walked down orchard street, visited shopping malls, walked down to chinatown,
postcard, tooth relic shrine, city gallery, up through business district, back to
hotel to meet with George Lee, went to Little India, got food, Sims electronics,
looked around, went down to the marina area, went to the museum because it was free
on friday nights, went to the concert area, chilled and listened to music, then
parted and back to the hostel

369 – morning went to marina sands hotel, missed cookie museum because not open yet,
hard to find entrance to sky park, went up to the sky park, then went to orchard
street again to look at one piece shirts, went to Sim’s square to buy the X-mini,
went back, then out again to meet with Kenny, we walked around, Raffles hotel, got
ice cream, dinner at place near newton stop, singapore food plaza, very good food,
oyster omelet, fried chicken wings, sea snails, full, went to art store to find gift
for dad but no luck, back

370 – early taxi to airport, plane to manilla, more expensive taxi, got to
Peninsula, said hello to family, talked over tea, went to nearby mall (very western
style), got food at court, back to hotel, rest, went out to dinner with Jerry and
his family

371 – Rented car with edwin, drove to church, then fort, then around thecity,
coconutpalace, went to the mall to get some food, then to chinatown, got stuck in
traffic for a while on the way back to the hotel, relaxed, good food at the hotel

372 – went to cultural museum, interesting gold exhibit, sam left to have lujnch
with his friend, got indian food, went to art museum, exhibit on paper art, back to
hotel, relaxed, thunder storm

373 – got up early for plane to Boracay, small mix up for which terminal and plane
we were on, made it, boat to Shangri-La Hotel Resort, settled in, beautiful hotel
and great staff, very nice beach, relaxed, had dinner at the seafood restaurant

374 – had breakfast, relaxed on the beach, spent a lot of time doing very little,
maybe mixing this day with the next

375 – went into town, walked along tourist drag (with mom and dad), little lost, dad
couldn’t deal with the pollution so he went back early, walked around the market
with mom, bought swimsuit, scissors, bargained for her hat, she got her nails done,
went back, relaxed, cut my own hair

376 – walked falong beach, picked up multi-colored shells, explored abandoned
lookout area, arranged shells, slept on beachside, read book, worked on laptop, fire
show with bbq on beach

377 – breakfast, golf cart to boat to plane to taxi to small plane to jeepney to
small boat, el nido resort, arrived to music, planned trip over next 3 days, relaxed
in rooms, dinner

378 – Lagoon tour and snorkling, octopus, kayaking, small cave, beautiful water, then to small island for lunch and swimming/relaxing, more snorkling, back to resort, no sunset cruise, reading and sleep, annoying singer guest

379 – other resort for breakfast and feeding Jacks, boat to south islands, cave exploring, then snake sand bar, bit of hiking, skipping fish, giant clam shell, back, monitor lizard, beautiful sunset, reading, traditional concert and dance

380 – hiking, strenuous, heard monkeys, jellyfish in water, many mosquitos, kayak back around island, beautiful formations, saw monkeys and colorful birds, came back, finished Pattern Recognition, made coconut hats, not much else

381 – boat from resort, small plane, sat right behind pilots, bit of rough ride, manilla, Edwin picked us up, took us back to the Peninsula, dealing with concierge to figure out Indonesian visa, business center too, sorted things out, repacked

382 – said goodbye to family after breakfast, edwin took me to airport, plane to singapore, spent 6 hours in the terminal, wasted singapore money, but got tea on the plane, plane to indonesia, confusion about plane ticket back but terminal agents reluctantly let me on plane, when got to immigration there were absolutely no problems, guy even suggested food to try, hotel, atm for money, cup of noodles at the circle k

383 – searched for new hotel, sandals and converter, moved hotels, walked to beach, satay, walked around town, nothing much to do, waves bad and surf lessons were expensive, came back, read book, hung out on wall with guys, stayed there whole night, then got tired/bored and slept

384 – got on minivan to Ubud, met HK couple, looked for hotel, Dewi Antara, rented car, elephant caves, holy bathing temple, stuck bird in the water, big stone people were moving around temple, volcano viewpoint for a short while, rice fields, went back, walked around looking for dinner, read book

385 – goodbye to HK couple, laundry with French girls, Monkey forest, walked around with the girls, agreed to meet for dinner, read my book until meeting, went for dinner and then drinking with more french people, came back

386 – walked around outer Ubud, stone carving village after wood carving, watched carving, nice walk and helped push some guys car out of being stuck, came back and finished VURT, in evening had dinner at wifi place but learned they had no wifi, as coming back saw wedding celebration, woman traditional dancing with various guys

387 – guy took me to Bemo station, Bemo to Batabulan, Bemo to Ubung, Bemo to Medewi, found cheap hotel, very lucky check in, relaxed, lunch (bad tofu and whatever), found 250k surf lessons ($26), watched the waves, read I and Thou, updated journal

388 – went out to surf, swallowed a lot of sea water, rode some waves, hit my groin with the surf board, killed my stomach, was exhausted, broke a fin off the board, searched a long time for the fin, ended up paying, read my book and relaxed, had dinner and chat with two guys

389 – left in the morning, bus to port, ferry, taxi to bus station, paid guy 102k but he didn’t give me my 60k change back, told me i would get it in surabaya, bus took me to Bondo, talked with the police there, got the next bus to surabaya, shuffled to night bus, got some fried chicken before we left the station to jogjakarta

390 – night bus got to Yogyakarta at 4 am, internet cafe for map, walked 4 km into the city, found a losmen, ansa hotel, lots of graffiti around the city, tourist information office got me a good map, went to the sultan’s palace, then to the batik art center, then to the bird market, got a cheap shake along the way, saw all sorts of weird animals for sale as pets (monkey, bat, owl, porcupine, flying squirrel, etc), then the water temple, went to the shadow puppet show in the evening

391 – went on tour of borobodur, it was rebuilt and not so interesting, then went to a small temple, saw a buddha in a laying down position but it was covered with a sheet as if it were sleeping (not typical), then to Prambanan, some other temples around, made friends with Lim, after the tour went out to the fort with Lim, got some good satay food, walked around, went for beers, rained very heavily and flooded streets, hung out in Lim’s hotel drinking

392 – bus to bus station, no one would give me a cheap correct price, finally after a long fight i got an express bus for 80k, food, became friendly with the ticket people, got on the bus, and it was a long ride.

393 – in the morning arrived at bogor, went to KFC for some coffee and to try to use the wifi (no luck), ran into a prostitute who grabbed my arm and i had to pry myself away from her, walked around Bogor, saw tons of deer around a huge fenced area (presidential palace I think), went to the tourist information office and waited until they opened to get a map, got a pretty crappy one, walked around until I found Firman Pension which was the guesthouse I was searching for anyway, Soil Museum, Botanical gardens, Zoology museum (whale skeleton), gardens, no huge flowers, orchids, cocoa trees and others, made friends with the guards, back, noodles, read/relaxed, rain, went out for dinner, screaming woman at guesthouse, bought killer bunny t-shirt

394 – Took 2k ekonomy train to Jakarta, walked to hotel area and checked out about 8 different hotels, had to search around to do laundry for a fair price, short visit to internet cafe, gado gado lunch, relaxed, met Ivan as he came to borrow an ipod charger, hung out, went for pizza hut with his agents (he is a model), came back and hung out more

395 – relaxed in the morning, went to see Centurian with Ivan, had lunch, rained, came back, chilled at the hostel with Liam and ___, met Pamela, talked a lot with her, meanwhile down the street people were playing drums non-stop to mark the end of Ramadan, briefly met Ross and Lindsay

396 – Went out exploring with Ross & Lindsay, National Monument, bus to Kota, walked around area briefly, hungry so went back to hotel, lunch, relaxed, met up again for dinner, played cards in room, Ivan was next door and heard us through the wall, we all hung out

397 – breakfast with everyone, goodbyes, went into Jakarta, walked through Kota area
to harbor area, lots of old ships and great photos, thought “the worst world for
life is the best for photographers”, dirty scum everywhere, really depressing,
walked around poor area, floating rats, terrible smell, walked down main street,
porn sold on side, burnt rat, visited mall, took the bus back, rained, dinner with
Pamela and friend, trouble finding ferry information

398 – up, no Pamela to say goodbye, really fast crazy moto to bus, bus to bus
station, bus to ferry, ferry to Sumatra to another bus, woman on bus said to get off
to get bus to Padang, expensive express bus, waited instead of paying, met nice
mechanics working for mercedez benz (bus supplier), slept in their tent, frogs and
bugs everywhere in tent

399 – guys flagging down busses for me, no room, finally took express bus at very
discounted rate, spent entire day on bus, nothing much happened, difficult to sleep

400 – arrived in Padang early, guy on bus pointed direction towards city, walked
forever to find a cheap hotel, put stuff down, food, shower, little rest, walked
around city, South African guy with no money sleeping on streets, down to beach, not
much of a beach, saw books drying in a courtyard, walked more, supermarket, got a
bit lost trying to find hotel, checked other hotels for their prices, retraced steps
to get back, mie bakso really delicious restaurant

401 – checked out and started walking to ?, asked police for where the bus station
was, ojek moto to bus, waited 6 hours at station for the bus to Toba, read, finally
on the bus, Sumatra windy roads, narrow, bus went through jungle, sorta nice

402 – no sleep on bus, stuffed nose, met a (the first) guy who did not know what
Judaism was, arrived in Parapat, expensive hotels, finally found a cheap one, walked
around, coffee with some people who called me over, got to know people, Bill and
Double, then internet cafe with new friends there, Rajes and company, fixed their
printer, hung out during the blackout

403 – Lots of yellow neon snot out of nose, huge mosquito, had breakfast, went to
Rajes’, fixed computer, Rajes took me on motorcycle to the ferry to Tuk Tuk (city)
on Samosir island, Bagus Bay guesthouse, walked around, met Ellie and Norma, drank
with them, continued walk around Tuk Tuk, met Roy who was getting married, arranged
my birthday party with E+N, walked back, had curry and watched forrest gump

September 18 – 404 – dropped off laundry, picked up motorcycle, met Alex, tour of
Samosir, stone chairs, hot springs, lunch mie, looked in the Tomok market for coffee
but none, back, met with Alex and Mike for dinner, rained, returned moto, watched
football and drank

405 – Birthday! collected breakfast and laundry, while having breakfast i chatted
with some students, answered some difficult questions, took the ferry to Parapat,
walked forever, finally found Rajes, fixed his printer again, took the ferry back,
wrote down a few of my favorites from different catagories, went to Ellies, had
lunch, found Alex, shaved my head, went to dinner, amazing huge fish, local palm
tree wine, great cake, and great redang curry, Mike sang a bit, Ellie and Norma and
Husband sang all night, beautiful voices, got many gifts, CD, shawl, thanked them
endlessly then called it a night, went to watch some football and eat some pizza
before the end of the evening.

406 – waited with Alex for ferry, public bus to Medan, 3 people each sat next to me
during ride squishing me/sleeping on me, fat guy second, fat lady third, Medan very
polluted like Jakarta, hotel, food, internet, no ferry, sleep

407 – woke up, bought flight ticket, spent time on internet, updated things, sent 1
year email (way too late), goodbye lunch with Alex, failed walk to post office
(closed), updated journal, updated photos, lots of time online

408 – walk to airport, checked in bag, waiting, toblerone, fisherman friends,
postcards to use the last of my money, plane, made tin foil animals, prayer cards in
seat pockets, Georgetown/Penang, very different than Medan, found hotel, met John
Shelton, walked around to find tourist office, closed, heritage museum, food with
John

409 – Went to Komtar, had toast along the way, tourist office, got map and did
research, store for coffee, back to hotel, shaved head completely bald, chatted with
John, went out for food with him again, back an then to sleep

410 – walked around after breakfast, nice town, bit of rain so went back, walked
around some more with John, Raffles-like hotel, Samosas, spent much of the day just
chatting with John

411 – early morning  ferry, no train, bus to Ipoh, dropped off 5 km from downtown so
walked rest of way, but bald so got sunburned on head, checked many hotels, no cheap
dorms, Shanghai Hotel, retro furniture, walked around ipoh, went to the mall, found
a plain hat from fashionable area, wore that, had laksa (tasted terrible), slept

412 – up, bus to cameron highlands, father’s guesthouse had no dorms,
Daniel’s/Kang’s Lodge, met Liz, relaxed, curry/m…, played pirate nation on iPod,
finished I and Thou (or gave up on it), planned next day, drank a bit next to the
fire, vicky-canadian

413 – tour in the morning, strawberry farm, rose garden, bee farm, honey, tea farm
lookout, butterfly farm, market square, fried mushrooms, no cactus farm, back, hung
out with Vic and Liz, lunch, relaxed, watched Crimson Tide, chatted, rain

414 – set out in the morning after coffee, hiked up path 4 then 6, slippery and
spider webs, umbrella sword, broken viewing tower, broken tree, left note, top, went
down 8, met 1 person, waterfall, easy path, harder after a while, farm area, got
some roti, walked back up road 8 km, listening to WWDTM and Car Talk, relaxed and
played cards with people back at guesthouse

415 – day to relax after hiking, walked people to the start of path 8 and came back,
watched Gargantua (not Godzilla 2), read, talked with Liz, played cards with a large
group of people split into two teams, our team we called Lynch Mob, migrated to fire
but I didn’t go, sleep

416 – up, bye to Liz, bus to Ipoh, no photo of Pluck Yourself, bus to Kellie’s
castle, missed second bus, waited an hour, got bus, K Castle was very disappointing,
rained, got car ride to “bus”, took me to express bus, no bus to Lumut, walked into
town after rain died, found bus station, to Ipoh, last bus to Lumut, got off at the
wrong stop, walked another 4 km to Lumut, bad guesthouse, finally slept

October 1 – 417 – not much sleep, ferry to Pankor, taxi to other side of island,
checked 3 places, great deal on AC room and private bathroom so took that, biked
around island, up and down, trash pile on one side of island, dutch fort, abandoned
dock with fishermen, spent time hanging around dock, back, zombie monkey, read book,
had dinner with couple, read more, sleep

418 – breakfast, wrote emails, updated journal, absolutely relaxed, nap, stolen
shoe, read Have Space Suit Will Travel

419 – went to beach, swam down beach, walked on rocks to private area, bitten on
foot by some evil bug, back, finished book, nap, walked, hornbill birds, Keow Teow
noodles, started reading 20,000 leagues under the sea, listened to podcasts

420 – morning checked out, taxi, ferry, 9:00 bus to KL, arrived at bus station far
from city, took bus to chinatown, backpackers guesthouse, out to Merdeka square,
then national mosque (no non-muslim tourists allowed), Islamic Arts Museum (very
nice), lake gardens, Sentral Station, no cheap water/shoes, fried rice, Meat Train
horror movie

421 – walked to Petronas Towers, KL Rapid back, checked out, bus to Kuala Selangor,
walked into downtown, K.S. Hotel, good dinner, saved 100 RM instead of taking tour
of fireflies from KL indirectly, saw fireflies, nice and thousands but not really
what i expected, like christmas trees

422 – walked to lighthouse park, monkeys on tv tower, nature park, so many
mosquitos, pond skippers, monitor lizards, herons, then took bus to KL, bus to
Melaka, sentral bus to Chinatown, walked around, saw MIchael from Cameron H, went to
Jalan Jalan GH, played pool with familiar people, had drinks and live music, then
went to sleep

423 – walked around historical district, got a little lost, saw a McDonalds across
from a McDonalds, went to a tailor to get my pants hemmed, explored an abandoned
building in the area, went to the wholesale market, then had more relaxing with the
group of people playing pool and drinking

424 – morning roti search, got tailored pants back, went for banana leaf lunch, took
a river walk to find pirate park, pirate park huge disappointment, came back and
relaxed, then off to night market, coconut guy puncturing finger through nut
(missed), food at Jonker 88, drinking, back, shaved but left a mustache

425 – in the morning gave a roti tour to new people, went to the bus station, no
Kuantan bus, KL -> Kuantan -> Cherating, guy who was in accident helped me out,
arrived at Cherating, got a free ride to Matahari, got tom yam soup

426 – roti breakfast, walked along Cherating beach, collected shells, walked to
disconnected beach with dog following, back, read book, postcard search + bus ticket
buying + laundry

427 – bus to Kuala Terengganu, no ferry to the guesthouse so gave up and got bus to
Besut, then last ferry to Perhentians, met Anita, shared room, went out drinking
monkey juice, watched Hole in One (terrible)

428 – snorkling tour, saw sharks, no turtles, jellyfish stings, lunch, back,
volleyball, movie- The Proposal, more drinking, drinking games, shaved mustache

429 – beautiful morning, hiking, spiderwebs, deserted beach, windmills out of order,
stairway rusted and workers painting over, more hiking, D’Lagoon resort for burger,
taxi back, rain, drinking again with games, Rob, Anita, Jess, etc, Anita and I
joking with Nova Scotian, 1 dimensional, congratulations

October 14 – 430 – left Perhentians, switched 3 boats, bus to Kuta Bharu, walked to
THai Embassy, free visa, Information center, tried to find Menorah but no luck,
found Cerana GH, watched Valiant movie, biryiani chicken, Night food market, watched
Usual Suspects

431 – bird beauty contest, tv interview, relaxed, watched The Gods Must Be Crazy,
went to the market for lunch, had Nasi Kambol, roti/thosai for dinner, watched
Karate Kid (new)

432 – went to market and took photos, walked around town, went back, met J’myle and
his friend, went to the cultural show, capoera type malaysian fighting, batik
painting, went back, out drinking with Abu and J’myle, bed

433 – met Dolly, helped her with visa, missed visa office closing, went back, went
out to see kite making, closed, postcard back, lunch with dolly, went to retrieve
passport, got, back, watched something, went out for drinks and food with Dolly and
Slovakian guy

434 – bus to Thai border, crossed, train to Hat Yai, food from platform sellers, bus
to Krabi with New Zealand and Argentinean, Good Dreams GH, Mick the irish guy and
watched Forgetting Sarah Marshall

435 – 4 islands tour with Mick, island with mischievous monkeys, chicken island,
snorkeling, lots of sea urchins, 3 islands connected by sandbar, cave island,
raining, came back, bacon cheeseburger, watched Crash, pizza and great live music

436 – got laundry put in, posted package, rented scooters with chicagoans, drove to
hot springs, accident, shuttling scooters, hospital, she was alright, back to hot
springs, back by night and cold with bugs, went to the night market for food, fried
sea cucumber, back, watched sherlock holmes

437 – breakfast without crew, bus to Koh Lanta, walked down to Phra Ae, found deal
on room, food, swimming, more walking on beach, rainbow shells, of course only girl
there was taken, minimart for pretzels and beer and mosquito repellent

438 – walked down and up beach, no shoes, hot pavement, coffee shake and chicken
curry, updated journal, relaxed and went to the bar, met caroline and zoe, drank and
chatted with them, watched fire show and danced, slept

439 – ferry to Koh Phi Phi with Caroline and Zoe, walked around with them, shopping,
booked room, they left, went back to dorm, out for food, spaghetti and salmon,
explored bar area, took advantage of free drinks, nothing happened

440 – hangover, walked around Koh Phi Phi, sat on beach for a while, walked “back
streets”, went out to low tide on the beach, relaxed in Sunflower Bar, met israelis
in dorm, went out for drinks with them, chilled

441 – morning hike after Thai pancake, viewpoints, raintee bay, back, quick shower,
tour boat, Monkey Beach, snorkeling in Phi Phi Leh, saw barracuda, Maya Bay, short
rest, didn’t know what to do before sunset, waited, sunset, back and chilled with
israelis, papaya restaurant

442 – monsoon rain in morning, coffee and croissant, ferry, long ride next to old
man and thai boy (kind of sketchy), drips from ceiling onto me, Phuket, walked to
bus station 4 km, 30 baht to Karon, walked around and found Pineapple GH, met Kat
from Seattle, chilled with her for the rest of the evening, picked up the DaVinci
Code

October 27 – 443 – raining outside so no motorcycle, crispy pork breakfsat, stomach
felt bad, relax, podcasts, read Axe Cop, rain, went to buy ticket, met Charlie from
DC, played pool, bought ticket

444 – sunny so explored beach, bus to surat thani, too late so forced to stay in
hotel, night market food, sleep

445 – morning bus to ferry, met michael (cameron highlands) again, threw away shoes
and bought cheap ones, ferry to Samui, bus to Chaweng, walked around and found
Dolly’s place, walked beach, evening hung out with people, drank, swam, sand woman

446 – bye to Olivia and guy, worked on computer for Dolly, relaxed, bought DVDs,
cute English girls, watched Toy Story 3 and Iron Man 2, didn’t go out?

447 – halloween went out to look for blue shirt, yellow tie, red jacket, rented tie,
no jacket, bought shirt (40 baht), went out as Lupin III (no one got it), gay bar
with inflatable penises, lady boy cabaret show, kissed and groped inappropriately,
went to other bars, group dissolved

448 – went to return tie, gave it to me, hangover, rain, flooding

449 – Sat around, (World Series? looked for bar, couldn’t find one, found streaming
version online), did online work until power went out, finished Around The World in
80 Days

450 – Woke up to flooding in streets, no poewr, no water, went out to supermarket
with Sam, Canoes in street, read and went down to the beach with Sam

451 – woke and flooding had gone down, thought of leaving but “no bus”, walked
around with Sam, back, busses existed but it was too late to catch the ferry, read
the rest of the DaVinci Code

452 – said goodbye to everyone, bus to Nathon, ferry, bus to train station, Irish
guys (saw later in Chiang Mai), got on train to Bangkok, train delayed 140 minutes,
sleep

453 – arrived in Bangkok, tuk tuk to Khaosan with stop at tailor for his commission,
checked into Rainbow GH, walked to Sukhumvit Rd to get  to cabbages and condoms,
walked around that area, tried to get to some club but couldn’t find, walked back,
free ticket given to me by some kid

454 – Got bus to weekend market, walked around for hours, looked for hsirts, shorts,
shoes, got 2 new shorts, came back and it was already late, Free Hugs guy (Dizzy?),
Grace irish girl, gypsy romanian girl

455 – Grand Palace, Wat Po, Myanmar Consulate for visa, shoes destroyed so tied it
with cord, new shoes at supermarket sale (99 baht), Wat Arun, met Franceska, went
for food with Grace, guys eating scorpion, drinking a bit

November 9 – 456 – day with Francezka, first wanted to go somewhere in the morning,
Information suggested Ancient City, finally found bus, waited forever, when we got
there it was too expensive, got busses back to Sukhimvit, walked to Lumphini Park,
chatted and then, walked to Patpong district, go-go bars, ping pong show (needles,
candles, bottle openner, horn, whistle, projectile, writing hello, more?), escaped
while tourists were being scammed, got food, came back on cheap tuk tuk

457 – morning ? , afternoon went to Myanmar Consulate to pick up visa, express boat
up to Teak Mansion area, walked forever to it, really beautiful at sunset and I was
last person there, saw the palace as well, Benjamabophit temple, back, nothing? food
with people? weirdness between Francezka and I

458 – gotbus to train with Francezka, train to Chiang Mai, only standing seats
available, didn’t have to move very often, even so a bit uncomfortable and very cold

459 – arrived in Chiang Mai very early (5 am), got songthaew to old city, walked
around checking guesthouses, had to wait for them to open, Same Same GH, walked
around to see various temples on map, cheap okonomiyaki, monk chat (not there), free
tea, park, dog orgy, night market, walked back, sleep

460 – Francezka left for trekking, met Alysha, maybe relaxed?, contacted Warren,
didn’t meet him at 1, went for lunch with Alysha, James and Jaz, went to Saturday
walking market with them, then Reggae Bar, live music, Nicky drama with rasta thai

461 – Met Warren at 1, great to see him again, lunch, then went to Doi Suthep, nice
view but unimpressive, after coming back decided to meet up later (failed), came
back, Sunday walking market, saw Sam from Samui, and the couple from
Holland/Equador, snacks, pizza, Reggae Bar with other

462 – rented motorbike, internet cafe briefly to print corrected visa form, went to
Indian Consulate for visa, almost impossible to find, needed extra pages, US
Consulate closed, angry, call fail, made appointment in internet cafe, okonomiyaki
shop closed, pizza place closed, other things that went wrong, read, Muay Thai
Boxing with Finnish guy, saw Mick, lost bet, Reggae Bar, met Dan, Nicky had drama
again and stalker

463 – Dan and I motorcycled to Pai, coffee research center, amazing views of Pai,
couldn’t find GH, went on a search, last minute Happy House GH cart rolled by and
took us there, checked in, had small pool table, nice people, relaxed, went on walk
through town, market, drinks at Yellow bar and pool, then Buffalo, german girls with
dreads, playing drinking games again with locals

464 – drove bikes to waterfall, relaxed, fell into river, lunch at nice viewpoint,
checkpoint by police, nice viewpoint, went out to walking market again, pool at
yellow, bamboo bar for night, hot bartender megan

465 – called Indian Consulate, elephant trekking around mountain, river playing, hot
springs, red worms, nap, pool, bebop bar, bamboo bar until 5 am

466 – breakfast, internet cafe, pool, Pai Canyon, spiderweb slip, waterfall, coffee
in love restaurant, back, out with friends, Jazz bar, market to buy knit orange for
Megan, drinking and eating at bamboo bar, hitting on Megan, squirt gun present

467 – headed out to Chiang Mai with dan, long drive but shorter than trip up, went
to market with an, Loi Krathong festival, lanterns in air, fireworks, lit offerings
down river, amazing, then came back and went to Reggae bar?

468 – paid (wrong but good) price for bike, bye to dan, reserved Air Asia tickets,
updated journal a bit, had to switch guesthouses to Diva, went out for a bit of the
night market, and then again to Loi Krathong to take more photos, back then relaxed,
sleep

November 22 – 469 – got up, waited to get motorcycle because 24 hour thing, drove to
tiger kingdom, big cat, awesome, saw other tigers too, came back, met Justin again
(in Pai as well), Israeli, hot dutch girl, all went out for end of Loi Krathong,
parted with couple, Justin and I went to reggae bar, montana girl

470 – bit hungover, US consulate for extra pages, India Consulate for visa, back,
returned scooter, relaxed at GH, heard Justin’s story about crazy night with thai
girl, Songthaew to bus to sukhothai, got to sukhothai at night, cherry picked
guesthouse, Le Sukhothai Resort, never before have i seen so many bugs, night market
food

471 – early morning bike ride to Wat Thawet, Buddhist hell statues, bike back with
brief visit to bus station for schedule, packed, sonthaew to bus (almost lost ipod),
bus to Ayuthaya, carol, walked 1 km to bus to center, found hostel, clean and comfy,
went out for dinner, found Carol, drinks and US states games

472 – 7:30 up and walked to temples, met carol there, 2 temples, buddha head in
tree, separated from carol, walked a lot, large reclining buddha, lost, dog gang
followed me, tourism office, rice porridge, market, shorts, pen, postcard, razors,
toilet paper, slurpie, soap, and updated journal

473 – morning tried to find bus to train, instead found 3 baht ferry, train to lop
buri 20 baht, TAT tourism office, Noom guesthouse, walked around old city, burnt
building, old ruins, monkeys on buildings and temple ruins, buildings in cages,
back, nap, out for food, drinking, club tawah, chinese girl fail

474 – attempted to sleep in, facebook back and forth with caroline, rented bike,
food at 10 baht noodle place, caro and zo came by at 1:30, drove out to the lake,
relaxed there chatting, learned backgammon, drove back with bugs in the face, fell
asleep reading

475 – morning got cheap small breakfast and coffee, hung around hotel chatting with
english girl, 9:00 went to reserve train ticket and then to see the Monkey Buffet,
boring so left, planning in train station, took the train with the English girls,
played charades, lady boy angels in BK station, back to Rainbow GH by bus, out
partying with Kiwis and english woman

476 – crazy evening, got back at 5 am, slept for 3.5 hours, productivity, changed
money, sent package home (1 kg for 10$) got postcards, looked for shirt with no
luck, came back, listened to Hendrix on balcony, people watched, Swiss girl Malika,
Khaosan with crew, drinking, (tried to kiss M but fail)

477 – Big breakfast, booked air bus, chat with Malika and new guy, acted as guide
sorta, left, bus problems, airport, no problems, dairy queen blizzard, plane to
Myanmar, guy sitting next to me from Tuanggi, “no bus” from airport, exchanged $10
at 850 kyat, walked 2 km to public bus, 200 ks but took 500 with a laugh, found
hotel – White House (really cool guesthouse, very high and decorated), food, ice
cream, internet, talking with others on roof with myanmar beer

478 – woke, breakfast and socializing, set out, walked all around city, sule pagoda,
donation (not entrance), random wandering, walked towards shwedagon pagoda, big and
gold, monk friend (Ritawi?) walkedback, “steamed rice and pork”, rooftop garden
reading and sunset

479 – after breakfast exchanged money (890 ks/usd), then back briefly, train station
to circle train, $2 to go all around city, sat at very back of the train, 3 hours,
walked back, planned and read, internet cafe, ate food twice, chatted with people at
GH

480 – went to train station after breakfast, very hard to buy ticket with shoving
and pushing, train slow but relaxing, country less developed than Laos, arrived in
Bago, kid with bike-taxi took me around to 8 pagodas, saw monk kitchen, big pagoda
under construction, 54 meter buddha, telling me to take picture, no entrance fee,
bus ticket commission, instead of tip “present”, bus arrived, Kyaikhitiyo, 1st
guesthouse no cheap rooms available, 2nd $10

481 – woke later than I wanted, bad breakfast (greasy), hiking, 2 hour 30 min to get
to tourist entrance fee office after non stop hike, many begging kids, many tea
shops, got to top, some food for 300, some more food for 3000, tried to go down to
bus station, wrong direction, followed girl, pick up squished, momentum, roller
coaster down, back, french juggler guy, dinner, reading

December 5 – 482 – Kyaiktiyo got bus, learned words from guy at bus station, met
semi-cute Malaysian girl on bus, A-Pong got off, Nwa Labu Dao, left my bag at a
monk’s house, hiked up for 2 or 3 hours, met israelis from Bangkok at top (no one
else, very odd), long hike, feet hurt in new shoes, saw pagoda and came down,
followed guy down some of the way, tried to get bus, people tried to get bus for me,
they couldn’t but were entertained by me, all buses full, finally bus to Thaton,
guesthouses all full except for one room for $10, first tried to sleep outside, then
submitted to $10 room

483 – woke a bit stiff, got pick up truck, sat on the roof, lots of fun despite
uncomfy, got to Hpa An, checked in, had lunch and a beer, took a nap, no internet at
cafes, finished LOTR 1, relaxed, went to get dinner, mutton curry at the bottom of
the pot, tasted good, felt terrible that night, threw up all dinner

484 – terrible night, still felt bad in the morning, rented a bicycle anyway, biked
many kilometers to Kya kau lat – pagoda on a big rock in the middle of a lake, felt
bad, decided to sleep a bit at the monastery, rested on bamboo platform, very
peaceful, monks gave me water and pillow, offered food, talked with monks, long bike
back, got bus ticket, internet cafe

485 – checked out early for bus, bus fire with jeans, tried to get off bus at Bago
but kept on going to Yangon, only bus north was to Mandalay in 3.5 hours, bus from
hell, smelled like rotten fish, guy next to me first put his ass on my leg, then
nodded off onto my shoulder 8 times, sick kid got onto bus, mother hitting his head,
threw up right below feet so I had to jump up, perched on chair, covered face with
towel to avoid smell and getting sick, still felt terrible, got no sleep, then
passed by the capital which had thousands of mansions and huge street light lit
highways with no one on them, the bus broke down again

486 – somewhere in early hours monks left seat so I changed to theirs and got a
little sleep, arrived in Mandalay, waited for pickup, walked all around for GH,
tourist info, found Nylon Hotel, checked in, breakfast, went out to Palace with
Austrians, 10$ entrance fee, East gate 4 km walk, really empty and sad restoration,
not much to see, free ride back, gave him monk given yellow string from Kyakalat,
sleep, lots of food at restaurant, relaxed

487 – Out to Mandalay hill with the Austrian girl, pagoda, went up hill, thought we
were at the top 3 times, cloudy and rainy, no visibility at all, not very
impressive, went bback down and to the “big Book Pagoda”, met Cherry, blue eyed
Myanmar woman, had tea with her, monastery and other pagoda, back, no English books
at the store, supermarket where met (not Carol) woman from Yangon

488 – Shared taxi tour to Amarapura, first to tourist shop, then another hill, still
raining so again bad view, thennnnn to the island, paid for boat across, did not pay
for the horsecart, walked instead in the muddy streets, monastery, pagoda, watch
tower, drunk locals, lunch, taxi trouble, U Bien bridge, took photos, eagles, taxi
back, again no books at another store, met Brian, skater from N Carolina, gave me
Ishmael

489 – early morning got on slow boat, met woman again, separate chairs for tourists,
long relaxing boat ride, saw rural life, read a little, chatted, good fried rice,
finally arrived, walked to Pinsa Rupa, really bad pizza with boat friends

490 – was sick so joined Jenny on half-day horsecart, saw main temples outside old
Bagan, so many temples/pagodas, really peaceful, vegetarian lunch, back, relaxed,
slept after amazing chicken noodle soup, internet cafe sucked

491 – took pickup down to old Bagan (500 kyat), Ananda temple, a few other temples,
walking just around, saw restoration work, followed long path down south to big
temple, grasshopper attack that broke shoes, great view from temple, shoe lost on
free motorbike ride to new bagan, horse cart took me to pick up shoe so he could
have it, took me to pickup station, pickup charged me 1000 kyat, woman helped me get
local price of 500 kyat, got cheap new shoes, fried rice

492 – still had cough, pickup to Mt Popa with spanish guy, passed to another pickup,
very long ride, finally got there with very little time, climbed up and down in 30
minutes and was exhausted, just enough time for a photo, rice and then got the
pickup back, payment confusion (first pickup never paid second when changed), got
another pickup, decided on taking bus to inle, garlic pizza but no wifi at
restaurant

493 – early got on bus (4 am), long ride, little sleep, about 4 pm arrived in Nyuang
Shwe, shared taxi with others, peaceful countryside, arrived, checked into Gypsy,
walked around, saw Brian again, fight with mosquitos at night, arranged for boat
tomorrow

494 – boat at 8, first rode to market, lake serene, fishermen paddling with legs,
market was nice, breakfast 500 tofu stuff + 200 rice, cockfight, hit head hard,
floating village, weaving store, monastery with dinosaur eggs (buddha heads),
blacksmith shop, other monastery in ruins and no one, silversmith shop, lunch very
expensive (so skipped), tomato garden and other veg floating farms, all these not in
exact order, jumping cats, back, total was 9000 between 4 people, reading

December 18 – 495 – rented bike after cheap breakfast, biked up to the train
station, check times out but couldn’t understand so took picture, biked back, went
to the bookstore, swapped Ishmael for SHerlock Holmes, used internet, then went over
to the east side of the lake, biked through farmland, came back, napped, returned
bike, beer and soup

496 – got pickup to train station, got tickets, train a little late, got on at 11:30
AM or so, nice relaxing ride, read a lot, beautiful countryside, got very cold,
chapati dinner, tried to sleep but hard

497 – switched trains at 3:00 AM in capital, put me on slow train, friend Zay,
beautiful countryside again, finally arrived at Yangon at 6 pm, White House was full
but had office room for me to sleep in, bleb Indian food, had ice cream, internet,
back, sleep

498 – morning went to market to buy souvenirs, long time there, carefully planned
out expenses, no shirt i was looking for, taxi to airport, $10 airport tax :(,
flight  to bangkok, dinner and Family Mart snacks (craved chocolate), found soft
chairs despite what info person said, finished sherlock holmes, sleep at airport

499 – woke at airport, pretzel was all i could afford, got hot water, milk candy
with the last of my money, plane to Kolkata, sleeping guy taking up room, landed, no
problems with pickup, Ananda’s father’s office worker picked me up, drove to office,
had lunch, sightseeing, victoria from distance, ganges walk, then to train station,
ATM search, train, met Bose at Jamshedpur, dinner, chatting with him and family,
sleep

500 – morning went to steel factory, H Blast Furnace, saw molten metal, torpedo and
bucket ladle, steel process, saw bucket being poured, oldest blast furnace still
working was 62 years old, back, out shopping, tibet cardigan, chaat, Tagore book and
shoes, shampoo, map, back, relaxed, went to club with Ananda and his great uncle,
whiskey and beer and tons of food

501 – Woke, samosa and some bread for breakfast, walked briefly but since road
wasn’t bad drove to Dr’s, blood pressure and pulse was fine, gave me some meds for
bad cough, then drove around town, Marine Blvd where rivers meet, returned, wedding
playlist, relaxed, played some christmas music, whisky

502 – chilled, gave out presents, went to buy a shawl, enjoyed sssitting around with
Boses, got drive to train, train late, goodbyes, train long, political guy on train,
driver (name?) took me to SLC part of kolkata block AL, room was filled with
mosquitos (36 that I killed) war

503 – taxi to Park St, walked to Hotel Maria, last dorm bed, met Tony from Boston,
went out, walked through Maidan, line to museum, bought ticket but didn’t go because
late, back to hotel, nap, out for walk with Tony and french guy who looked like Jean
Luc Picard, roll corner for dinner

504 – museums closed, 10 rupee breakfast, walked up to Tagore house but also closed,
down through park, FRRO, said that it would be ok to go to SL, nan thali, back,
shower and relaxed, chatting with tony, helped him figure out his visa problems,
more rolls for dinner

505 – early walked Tony to FRRO and then to VIctoria Palace Museum, fantastic
building, but subpar museum, sat outside for a bit chatting, tried to get to ST
Pauls but no luck and didn’t put in much effort, went back to relax and sleep, ?,
Blue Sky Cafe for mutton curry

506 – Tony and I went to Mother Theresa home, closed, back, read, tried going again
but closed again, walked up to Tagore house area but got lost at some point,
frustrated and defeated I walked back, stayed inside, then went to the cafe again to
have some meh biryiani

507 – breakfast at same place (every morning 1 rupee puri), Indian Museum, ancient
exhibits which were interesting because they were so old, cool skeletons, after some
wandering around there I came back, backed up journal, booked ticket, mostly
chatting with Tony and Chris from Austin

December 31 – 508 – went with Chris to goat sacrifices at Kalighat, fascinating,
skinned and butchered goats afterwards, went back, read some Tagore about his
childhood home, then went out again to Tagore house, very nice and interesting after
reading, back, chat with Tony, went out to find booze and place to celebrate, after
walking up and down Park St went to Super Pub on Sudder, chatting with kingfisher,
muslims next to us sharing food and being very friendly, Happy New Year!, after
coming back got into chat with crazy old guy Peter, after helping him stumble to his
room he gave me sweets, went to rooftop and chatted about how he needs to feed
himself as well as the cats (instead of just the latter), went to get chess and
never came back, sleep

509 – packed, checked out, waiting for change, reading on rooftop, picking fleas off
a cat (few dozen), waiting, backed up photos, bleh curd, updated journal, waited,
Tony and I walked to bus station, got bus while he wasn’t paying attention, waved
goodbye, train waiting, got on train, sleep apnea guy so difficult to sleep

510 – slept past Gaya station, got off at next and train headed other direction was
stopped there, crawled under car to get on train, rode one station, creepy army guy
wanted to share auto rickshaw, i said no to 150, “no bus”, found 100, walked around
finding guesthouses full, found Bowl of Compassion restaurant, lunch with Suhlyan
and Murari, nap, then Mahobodhi temple, Buddha tree, sat for a while, then on the
way back I was attacked by children, night, dinner with Murari and Suhlyan/Honey

511 – relaxed in morning, went out with Su Hlyan to see Myanmar monks, checked her
ticket, monks gave us food and coffee and tea and taro candy (I had 5 cups of drinks
that morning), agreed to help out at meeting, came back, didn’t do much, tried to
connect computer to internet, helped su hlyan sort dvds, she almost missed her train
because unconfirmed, got internet dongle driver installed but no username, crazy
japanese Kanda Takahiro came along and we chatted

512 – Slow cold morning, helped serve children food in afternoon, got internet
working, wrote messages for Murari, Murari’s neice’s birthday party (gave
flashlight), had whiskey and brandy next to a small fire, Kanda-san came along,
chatted in kitchen after party, worked on the internet, got a virus on my thumbdrive
(either from Maria or there)

513 – another cold morning, puppy outside was bit in night, Kanda wanted to help it,
worked on the computer, cut some vegetables, painted walls, put up a black hand on
wall, printed photos, came back, more computer work, measured children and wrote on
papers for them, wrote more messages and posted photos for Murari, electricity went
out, tried to help him fix it, had dinner at his house

514 – stomach was giving me problems (I think from birthday dinner), reserved train,
printed/laminated time schedule for school, didn’t plant anything that day, did some
photo work of my own, ate again at Murari’s home and watched a movie

515 – woke, upload photos didn’t work, Murari asked me to donate pots and silverware
(800 rupees), then helped plant roses and lemon grass, kids not digging like I
wanted but whatever, made origami boxes and tried teaching, worked online a bit, no
success so played nanaca crash, ride with Murari to his restaurant, had indian style
okonomiyaki, then auto rickshaw to train station, went into rest area and managed to
sleep until 12:30

516 – train arrived (late), walked downtown, worker from Puja GH with one fingerless
hand “helped” me, took me to Puja and gave me a chai, room too expensive, took me to
Yogi, full, Shanti had a 70 rupee room, “Uncle” shook my hand with his fingerless
one and looked disappointed since I wasn’t staying at his place, went out to buy
supplies (padlock, tp, batteries, water), wallked down ghats, restaurant at end with
wifi, came back, went to cremation ghat, back, listened to podcasts, then tired so
nap, nap turned into sleeping the whole night

517 – Very cold night, after finally getting up, car talk and breakfast, update +
backup journal, got blankets from desk, went down to ghat, watched cremations, read
Tagore book on riverside, got lost on the way back, Gange Fuji restaurant for lunch,
postcards, Shanti Guesthouse for dinner, taught web design to guy at internet cafe,
HT (?)

518 – terrible stomach, slept uneasy but kept throwing up and etc, in the morning
met a canadian traveling 16 months, slept a bit more, internet, read on rooftop,
could have visited Dalai Lama but stomach felt bad, watched kites on rooftop, went
on free boat trip, relaxing but didn’t see much new stuff, had a small dinner,
searched for wifi, conversation in a silk shop, found wifi, went back and read

519 – wifi in the morning to get podcasts, checked out, walked a bit to the train
station, took rickshaw because i thought i’d be late, said “20” rupees but didn’t
understand, 25 rs, got on the train, podcasts, samosas, thali dinner, cold night,
very very cold night

520 – since it was a 40 hour train I spend the whole day on the train, samosas,
reading, charged my ipod but had to wait in line for the charger, sleep

521 – arrived in the morning, walked to the hotel area and checked around, Mahul
hotel for a 450 a night, Jamma Masjid, Gates, shaking minarets, had a street dosa,
Dada Hari well (fantastic) and mosque, textile museum (not open yet), Gandi Ashram
very quick, hurried back to textile museum for tour and just made it, walked back to
hotel, internet, tv, ZK Hotel for dinner

522 – walked to tourist office, closed, kite festival on riverbank was being packed
up, watched across the river, found a red kite and fixed it, it seemed happy, met a
disabled guy who worked in the post office on a motortricycle, had a conversation
about all stuff, went to get some gujarat thali, walked towards slums to see kites,
met Sayed, weird guy with enfield, continued, watched kites near slums, went back,
had a nap, went to the rooftop of the hotel, watched the kites and fireworks

523 – walked around looking for Enfield place, walked through Law Garden, no success
because it was their old offices, Kite Museum closed, back, owner of Cadillac hotel
took me and a german girl back to his house, his sisters were overly hospitable, we
watched the kite festival on his roof, thousands of kites, tried flying a kite
myself, hard to start, cut fingers a little, walked back, ice cream (changed hotels)

524 – walked to bus station, no one was helping me, finally found 15 rs bus to
Adalaj, got there, very unimpressed compared to dada hari, shared rickshaw with
brasillians to gandi ashram, walked back, saw Sayed along the way, he took me to get
sweet pan (no tobacco), tasted good but was absolutely disgusting to chew, internet
to meet Irina (old high school friend, chasing each other through india),
restaurant, while waiting for change I saw her, rushed out shouting but she didn’t
hear, got ice cream, saw her and chatted a little before she and her friends left
for the bus, went to the night market looking for postcards but no luck

525 – post office also had no postcards, got some street puri, walked to Shapun Gate
area, no enfield dealership, mechanic said he had a 45k Rs one, went back, internet,
no trains (waitlisted), decided on bus, backed up photos, had 2 chocobars, no ATMs
that would withdraw more than 10k limit, didn’t call Sayed, watched Buck Howard, got
masala dosa/lassi, read, walked to bus early, dog/motorcycle accident right in front
of me, got on bus

526 – long ride, got to Mumbai but at 40km the bus stopped to unload things, waited
for bus to continue, final stop was near central station, tried to walk but I was
tired and frustrated, no ATMs, found an ATM, got a taxi out of frustration, no dorm
at Red Shield, guy showed me to Delight Guesthosue, got food, walked along the
seaside, Laxmi Villas for dosa dinner, back, some beer which i discretely drank
while reading, sleep

527 – went with friend to mechanics looking for Enfield, found Pulsar for 32k, Hero
Honda for 20k, went up to Opera House, none at Pramji shop, other guy would bring
his in tomorrow, went back, saw Gateway of India, the Taj hotel, Synagogue,
University, Oval Maidan, met Terence Alan Bradley, a freelance tour operator,
explained cricket to me, got a drink and listened to/talked about music, went to
beachside and talked about taking tour, he convinced me after long consideration,
went back

528 – someone stole my shoes I bought in jamshedpur, 8 am met Terence, bus to
Victoria Station, went to Crawford Market, bus to washing station place, some people
handed me some bananas for free, train, buffalo farm, then to Daravi slums, got taxi
despite his promises not to, a beer for T, Banganga Tank, saw Haji Ali’s from a
distance, went to a shopping mall?, motorcycle place – didn’t have and said he would
in an hour, got drinks, motorcycle guy still didn’t have it, went to the other
market, drove briefly through the red light district, home, wished Terence good
health since he was destroying himself with alcohol, met with Irina after some note
exchange confusion (left notes for each other in the other’s hotel at the same time,
missed her by 5 min), got dinner with her and her friends, ice cream

529 – morning went to meet Terence, French guy there, walked to Flora fountain,
Victoria Terminal, Oval Maidan, walked to Chowpatty, had behl puri and Gola (very
sweet syrup), pen of pidgeons, bird pooped on shirt, washed in free water next to
shrine, went to Hanging Gardens, not so hanging, shop still did not have bike when I
called, bus to crawford market, another allcoholic, walked back, bought shirts i
didn’t like, relaxed, legless guy who had been friendly now wanted a beer, Irina
didn’t meet up for dinner

530 – dropped off laundry, went to relief cinema again to meet Terence, bought
headphones because lost them yesterday, went with french guy to Churchgate to
reserve train tickets, strange lady who did everything in fast motion and seemed
always angry but not, went to Oxford Bookstore to buy LotR 2, read rest of Tagore
book, no one wanted to buy, Internet, dinner, read LotR

531 – woke, read, breakfast, read, lunch, read, almost finished LotR, walked to
train station, train to Aurangabad

532 – Arrived in the morning about 5am, youth hostel was closed so stayed outside
for a while, dog desperate for a tummy rub, let me in to hostel and i slept, tourism
office for map, train station to book train from Pune to Goa, walked to bus station,
went to Ellora, crammed bus, fighting to get on, Ellora was beautiful and awesome,
bats in temple, monkeys on the hill, hiked up to top and met Adric, bus back, walked
to waterwheel and Taj replica but didn’t go to either because of entrance fee, back,
dinner with Adric

533 – Ajanta with Patrick, lots of temples in the cliff sides, long time to walk
through all of them, frescos painted inside them, got a bit repetitive, like Petra,
got bus back, got photocopy of visa, guy arguing at photocopy place, internet cafe,
thali dinner (all with Patrick from france?)

534 – Early went to bus station, accidentally got delux bus to Pune, saw a monkey
riding on a rickshaw, walked to main station in Pune, went to the bookstore and
bought the Little Prince, after waiting got on train, met very nice German couple, a
frenchman, and some Indians, had a thali dinner again

345 – Arrived in Magdao, bus to bus station, bus to Panaji, bus to Marpusa, bus to
Anjuna, found Manali Guesthouse, tried to find Enfield, waited an hour for a guy to
come, had very old rusting enfields about to fall apart, then went to beach, rough
sand and smooth stones, explored around, then walked down to the south beach, had 2
beers, back, met Manu, chatted at restaurant with him and Rahul, had a shower, got
some coffee and wifi, met Rani (?) guy who just got out of jail for kidnapping his
son from his ex wife, went to club with Manu, partied until 10 when they shut it
down, back, had some more beers, left for sleep

536 – Rented Enfield with Manu, took me to a football field to learn clutch, drove
up to Vagator (or some place like that), manu had a smoking habit he was trying to
quit, went to the beach and drank beer, drove back to Anjuna, had another beer, went
out to internet cafe to teach Manu about facebook and got him a gmail address, then
went for South Indian food, huge paper dosa, then to jewelry shop, tried to scam me,
transport jewels to US in my name (promised no money I would have to pay) to avoid
taxes, convinced me, filled out paperwork, packaged the jewels in front of me, took
me to the post office in taxi, post office closed! tried another, also closed, back
to office, forced them to take back the jewels and I took back the paperwork,
returned enfield, put stuff back at the guesthouse, manu and I went out for irish
coffee at a pricey restaurant with live music, expressed doubts to him, then went to
Westend club in the “jungle”, got in free and free drinks, but 30 guys and 6 girls,
lame, it was late so we went to Manu’s flat, had some curry and watched bad movies,
sleep

537 – got up early and couldn’t go back to sleep, told them i changed my mind and i
wasn’t going to do it, manu started to argue, then other flatmate came out and
argued harshly, i argued back and won the argument eventually, agreed to burn the
paper and delete photos off camera, went back to the guesthouse, took secret photo
of document and copied picture, went to restaurant with manu, burned paperwork and
“deleted” pictures, chai, back for a shower, listened to podcasts, wifi, relaxed,
talked with scottish johnny, other people joined, bought goa wine, weird, drank
whole bottle, went out to meet manu to go to the market, he wasn’t there, took taxi
to market, big but got bored, walked back, sleep

538 – Decided to go to Palolem with German Sarah, first went to hospital since she
hadn’t felt good for the past few months, she didn’t like it, took bus to Palolem,
Linda Huts, lost room key briefly while buying water, relaxed, traded books for LotR
3 and Animal Farm, got country flags of all the countries from the trip, read LotR3,
food from hotel, Sarah didn’t feel well so we didn’t go for dinner, got shitty fried
rice, read

539 – made coffee for Sarah and I, went to Monkey Island, crawled over slippery
rocks to get there, trekked through the island jungle, fell backwards into brush
when dead branch broke while climbing, almost died, saw a huge eagle, a parasite
tree, a donation bowl with 2 Rs paper and exchanged for 10 Rs, came back, relaxed
and read, had lunch on the beach, Sarah was still not feeling well, read more, loud
party (drugs?) next door

540 – left note for Sarah, went to bus station, brief talk with couple, read at the
station, got the bus to Gokarna, arrived late, hiked to Om beach, met Sven German,
gave the only free room to him, no rooms, hiked in the almost dark to Half Moon
beach, first place was available, 150 for a thin mattress on a dirt floor, met old
English couple and told them gem scam story, chatted with a group of assorted people
also at the guesthouse

541 – watched sunrise on rocks, walked to Om with laundry, used the internet a bit,
chilled with Sven, read, swam, Antony Denmark did coconut shell carvings and let us
use his tools to fool around doing the same, back to the hotel for a short time, got
laundry back, went back to Half Moon for sunset, watched on rocks, had dinner with
the eclectic group, then stole mosquito net from unused room to sleep with the
mosquitos

542 – Up at 5am to hike 6km to bus station, almost missed the bus because looking
for postcard, bus to Hampi, 10 hours, nothing except annoying guy talking to me,
Hampi, boat to cross river was ridiculous 15 Rs, found Sri Durga, found wifi for
free, walked around, back, sleep with more mosquitos (at least this place was 50
Rs/night)

543 – looked for shallow river crossing, followed local, waist-deep crossing, had
puri breakfast, abandoned-like temple on a hill, wandered around, temple but didn’t
enter because of fee, got on rooftop of some temple, walked north-east up large
mountain temple, old stairs, down through ancient bazaar, up into mountain, got
lost, thorns, brush, decided I didn’t like India, finally found way, few more
temples walking back from south direction, hot and sunny, “underground” shiva
temple, thali, went back, paid for boat, cheap restaurant and waited forever for
thali, used internet, met germans from train, went to sleep

544 – met German couple for breakfast, found train was waitlisted so decided on bus,
back to relax and read, played with Ily, some small girl from south africa I think,
we made a poison concoction to use against dinosaurs who were planning to invade us,
learned about 5 planets including Aceland, Bloodland, Ilyland, Bombland, another,
walked to Haruman temple, went up the stairs, nice view, bad music, back down, had
Upma, relaxed, went up hill to see sunset with all the hippies, nice violin music,
had dinner with Australian and English girls, got drinks, then sleep

545 – bus to Hospet, Hospet to Mysore, crazy bus driver, multiple chats, finally got
to Mysore, Deprakash Hotel, 350 Rs but nice room to relax in, had food at RRR but
they were not friendly, then relaxed and sleep

546 – coffee and news, tourism office for map, train station for reservation, then
briefly through the market to get to the Palace, 200 Rs to get in, but free audio
headset, camera deposit guy didn’t want to give me 1 rupee change, Palace was
amazing, beautiful stained glass ceilings, audio guide was a nice addition, after
went up to bus station to go to Chamundi Hill, not so impressive and a less than
spectacular view, walked down steps, saw black cow, walked back, went to market, met
Azam guy and had chai over a chat, went to Suryani government approved sandalwood
seller and got some elephant statue for too much (1500 Rs), went to bookstore and
bought Gulliver’s Travels, went to Paras restaurant for lunch and dinner since it
was so good, wrote 18 month letter, no cheap internet so skipped

547 – made list of to do, cut hair after a shower, went out, stores closed before
10:30, got some chai, walked around, found cheap internet 20Rs/hour, backed up
photos, no postcard, bought pen, found the pen I thought I lost, had breakfast, sold
books for 10 Rs, updated journal, then went out to the train, train to Bangalore,
had dosa at stop, nice family, then got on train to Ernakulam (Cochin), had weird 3
whales dream where I woke myself up by saying “three whales!”

548 – arrived in the morning, walked 3 km to ferry, ferry to Fort Cochin, met Tom
German and some others, found dorm for 150 Rs, walked around following walking tour
map from tourism office, Chinese Fishing nets, old colonial buildings, got ride to
Jew St in return for holding toilet, Synagogue, jewish cemetery, walked back, with
Tom and other german girl we bought fish and had them cook it at a restaurant, first
too raw, then overcooked, then went back, went to get chai, and ice cream, back to
hotel, met American from North Carolina, went out with her to walk along beach and
view stars, Bob Marley cafe with eagle

549 – went on backwaters tour, 1.5 hour drive through traffic to get to Allepey?,
got on canoe-like boat pole pushed, floated through alleys of water, calm, peaceful,
saw water snake, locals doing washing, stopped to view various spices being grown,
nutmeg, pepper, betel, cloves, jackfruit, then made another stop to view people
making coconut husk rope, tried myself, then went to another type of boat, a brief
thali lunch and good beer, house boat, rode that along river, then finished and came
back, got food with people, walked around, saw fish market, chai with tom

550 – everyone checked out in the morning, I sat around reading, used internet, then
met Jos and Peter from Bristol, chatted with them for a while, then went out for
dinner and beers with them, caught ferry, walked to train station, on train had 2nd
seating, someone was in my seat, finally they got out of it after someone else got
them up, tried to sleep

551 – morning got to Madurai, map from tourist office, tout trying to get hotel
commission, found own room, submitted laundry, reserved train ticket at station
(waiting list), chocolate cookies, did a lot of work on the internet, sent 1.5 year
email, watched tv in hotel for the rest of the night, had a rawa dosa (really good)

552 – picked up clothes (pants still dirty because of mistake), headed to temple,
didn’t pay to get in, but the line i was in was for some hindu only area of the
temple so they kicked me out inside of the temple boundaries, walked around the
temple, large, okay, then went to the palace, just peeked in outside because didn’t
want to pay fare, walked back, relaxed and went to find postcard, took a while but
bought one for too much, relaxed in the hotel eating the candy I bought

553 – retrieved pants, puri breakfast, read Gullivers Travels, sat around, had an
amazing lunch across from hotel (Ranson hotel? restaurant started with Sri),
internet, took things to train station, got seat assignment, read, in station saw
old woman teaching a baby how to walk, finished GT, second part not great too
preachy, finally got on train, sleep

554 – Got to Chennai, met Chris from Kolkata while walking to Salvation Army, met
Will Bristol in SA, went to dosa breakfast with him, saw: a protest, trashed rivers,
a ground dog (dog peeking out of a hole), fort (skipped 100Rs foreigner fee too
steep). took a rickshaw (Giri) for free because he took me to commission stores,
first was really pushy, second was easy but nice since they labelled the prices, had
3 chais that morning, Giri bought me a free lunch, went to temple, then San Thome
Basillica with the grave of the Apostle Thomas, walked along Marina Beach, literally
shitty, saw fishermen shaking net with fish like a trampoline, walked back, Will and
other two people, hung out, had dinner at no name place, bought run and chatted over
drinks

555 – breakfast with Will and Katrina Austria, will left, escorted K to station,
witnessed a homeless guy dead who was on some metal cart being pushed by two other
homeless people out of the train station, police man shouting after them, walked to
Parry’s corner, no postcards, back to Salvation Army, met with Will again, got
kicked out because I wouldn’t pay for another night, went to the airport very early,
but not allowed inside the airport until 3 hours before flight, cricket team
arriving, got on plane

556 – arrived at 2 am, through immigration and customs, tourist information, slept
in chair, bus to fort area, YMCA had one room left, slept, walked to clock tower,
lots of security around, had some bad tasting biryiani, walked down beach, went east
into park, thought a friendly gardener was showing me around but actually just
wanted money, lots of elephants, saw huge elephant penis, cinnamon trees, left
northwards, saw some mosque, went through the train station but they tried to get
money out of me (buy platform ticket), went back to the Y, relaxed, went out for
food, met Mohan, chatted over tea about religion, the state of the world, his
difficulties finding someone to marry, had dinner too, went to sleep

557 – Morning used internet, then Indian visa office, had re-entry difficulties
because they only permit it in case of emergencies, not for tourists, pissed off at
india, went to the train station, bought ticket to Unawatuna, met Chula, convinced
me to go to his guesthouse in Akurala, got the train down the coast, spent most of
the time standing by the open train door, went to Lahiru guesthouse, briefly went
swimming, back, had huge fish dinner (not great), played games with their servant
(flicking game, some card game, and war), sleep

558 – in the morning made coffee, then got the bus to Galle, the fort there was
really peaceful and the buildings in old colonial/Dutch style, walked around, flower
coral, lizard, lighthouse with monks around it, found postcard outside, got bus to
Unawatuna, touristy beach, stole wifi, walked to temple, then up long road trying to
get back to the main road, found a weird old monk who was overly affectionate and
touchy, showed me his room/temple, made me uncomfortable so I left, went back to the
main road, got the bus to Galle, had 100 r lunch, express bus to Akurala for too
much, shower, relaxed, bought crackers, another fish dinner, chat with Chula’s
sister, then sleep

559 – Went to Moonstone mines, taught boy how to whistle through grass, went on mine
tour, went down into the mine but it was “closed”, didn’t buy any jewelry, walked
back, got a tractor lift for a bit, used cheap internet, got kirala juice, guy
wanted money after short uncomfortable bike ride, got small samosa thing lunch, then
back to hotel, went out to swim a bit, found 2 old rupees on train tracks, back, had
string hoppers, updated and backed up journal, (note: sent backup at this point,
later today I may just read and sleep)

 

560 – In the morning bus to Anarangoda, didn’t know where the train was, got off the bus too early, guy told me to go the wrong way, more people told me to head towards a smaller station, had to run 2 km to get to the main station, gave up but kept going at quick pace, just made it to the train in seconds before it left, train to colombo, put luggage in locker, reserved train ticket, used internet, walked around, children’s park to read a bit, small buddha temple, mcdonalds (bleb), no Barefoot coffee, bought Hamlet, popsicle at beachside, got re-entry permit from Indian visa office, train station, sunset, then rained, waited for rain at bus stop, read at station, train to Anaradhpura

561 – got to ANaradhpura, didn’t know the right direction, found way to temples, big dome temple (Jatharana?), ruined sacredcity, Sri Mahabodhi, tree small and not as impressive, tourist police didn’t have info, went to Jatharana but no tourist info there either, met Raja, said his brother could give me a room for 1000, rickshaw tour, temples, “moonstone”,   guardstone, monk bath, bus to Kandy, checked in, Tooth Temple, too expensive 1000 rs, huge mass of crows in central square area, groceries, big dinner, back, read, sleep

562 – morning train to Nuna Oya, really beautiful ride, bus to Nuwara Eliya, (overcharged), guy at station took me around to guesthouses, finally decided on 1000 room with great view, tea, relaxed, internet, found wifi, stole, went to Allen’s guesthouse for big dinner, back for a small party with british guys and their asian wives

563 – breakfast roti, out exploring, map at post office from xeroxed lonelyplanet, walked to single tree hill, wandered up, then down, Victoria Park, email while in gazebo, slept on bench, up, some groceries, stole wifi while having lunch, internet, back, met swedish trio, chat over crackers, dinner, back, sleep

564 – enjoyed morning view, Robert – worker at GH – took me to his house, very christian family, his wife especially, back, went out with swedish, breakfast, super k market, fruit market, picnic in park, backgammon, dots, chilled, then to race course, watched football, walked back, internet, shopping for shoes/sweater for them, back, relaxed, dinner at guesthouse, pumpkin curry,sleep

565 – coffee and crackers breakfast, said goodbyes, bus to Hatton (10:00), bus to Maskeliya, bus to Dolhousie, Adam’s Peak, started climb at 14:10, very steep, like Kyaiktiyo/Huangshan, got to top after only 2 stops at 15:40, cloudy, gave 10 Rs donation, started down at 16:00, got to the base at 17:30, bus at 18:30, hatton around 20:00, no bus, only night train in 6 hours, beer and dinner @ 20:30, train at 2:45, freezing station, made a friend who paid for ticket and encouraged me to take a breathing course

566 – Nanu Oya at 5:00, morning bus, cold, walked to guesthouse, freezing, “broke” in, slept, fresh laundry, internet and photos, lunch, groceries, back, podcast, relax, updated journal, went out to get dinner, back and brief chat with new people in guesthouse

567 – broke out of guesthouse early in the morning, weird dust that didn’t rub off easily on me, missed the bus because no one told me which one to take, got the next one to P., no way to the park except rickshaw or to walk, walked 6 km, 3000 Rs entrence fee, ride from Japanese tourists working on a dam in SL, Horton’s Plains, beautiful park, hiked path, mini World’s End, original World’s End, collected flowers from the world’s end, Baker’s Falls, motorcycle ride down, bus to Welamada, bus back, Internet and photos, dinner, guesthouse

568 – morning breakfast, bus to Numa Oya, train to Colombo, stood by the train door almost all the way, stole wifi, laminated flowers, back to station and read, met with Mohan, chatted over dinner, back to the station, got luggage, bus to shuttle, shuttle to airport, couldn’t manage to spend 3000 Rs

569 – plane to Chennai, “didn’t need” re-entry permit, train to salvation army, dorm, sleep, japanese and english when went to sleep, japanese and english (different) when woke up, central station to reserve train to Delhi, needed passport, back, back, reserved, read, relax, sleep more, amazing dinner near Egmore (Sri Jaya?), internet, finished book, sleep

570 – 6:35 train to Pondicherry, tourist info center, didn’t know Sadhana forest, rented bike, hostel phone busy, rode up, got lost, flat tire, right after flat tire next to hotel, rode bike around Pondicherry, Sri Arobondo ashram, boring french architecture, relaxed at hostel, dinner outside, coffee.com for wifi, early sleep

571 – early biked to Auroville, breakfast with israeli, german, and Mia from Aland (fin/sweed), watched film, Matrimandir viewpoint, biked around, architecture slightly interesting, no way to get food at solar kitchen because not staying there, back to visitor center for lunch, read, biked to sadhana forest, very interesting project, biked back, sort of got lost, good dinner, sleep

572 – Up, checked out, returned bike, tourist center to tell them about sadhana (weird conversation), suggested Mamallapuram, hot breads for breakfast, posted package at post office, walked to bus station, bus to mamallapuram, tourist center, met CA indian family, they drove me around, walked around with them, saw many cave temples, Krishna’s butterball, monolithic caves, Anjuna’s Penance, 5 Rathas, shore temple, beach, dropped me off at the train station, went to Chennai, got train to Delhi

Mar 6 – 573 – Day on train. seatmates: Russian tour group, Indian family with restless kid, Tamil Nadu weightlifting team. Followed map, weightlifting guys broke the map, music, read Hamlet, updated journal on shaking train, finished music alphabetically

574 – Arrived in Delhi, searched many hotels until found a cheap place, Moon Palace or something, camera not working (date resetting), walked to Connaught Place, tourism office not helpful, India Gate, Humayan’s Tomb, walked around, tired and depressed, nap on lawn, walked around tomb to train station, didn’t buy ticket, chai was outrageously expensive, off duty policeman gave me snacks on train, back to the hotel, relaxed, went out for food and walking around, internet cafe, didn’t have passport, brought it back, left it there, slept

575 – no passport, left it at internet cafe, breakfast ripped off by guy, angry and yelling, booked tickets at train station, got lost walking to Jamma Masjid, wouldn’t let me in without paying the camera fee, didn’t go in, went to the Red Fort, camera not working, very depressed, didn’t care about the place at all, left, walked to subway, subway to Green Park, walked long way to FRRO office, got lost, had to ask way from many different people, finally found it, extremely busy, no clear directions, confusing, tons of paperwork and needed form from hotel, decided to skip it and do it in Amritsar, bus to subway back to hotel area, looked  for books, chow mien, internet, sleep

576 – morning train to Amritsar, few hours, saw fields of people shitting, got to Amritsar, walked to Golden Temple, got dorm room (free!), met with Katrin, chai and lunch (free!), amazing, temple was fantastic, walked around chatting with Katrin, friendly Sikhs everywhere, saw chapati machine, kitchen functioning, saw temple at night, ritual to put sacred book to bed, 5 rs soda, huge sleeping pavilion, covered head with handkerchief, bed

577 – (made move) breakfast with Katrin, walk around park, chat, relax, reserved border trip, internet, border, sick couple so went back briefly, to the border with small talk to italian girl, weird border ritual at Atari, dancing and chanting, guy resting arms on my shoulders, back, dinner with Katrin, another walk around, fountain, decided to go with her to Dharmsala, back, sleep

578 – Morning bus didn’t go to bus station so walked instead, got bus, bumpy and loud, Pathankot, switched to bus that would have been direct from Amritsar, Dharmsala, bus to McLeod Ganj, cherry-picked at bus station for hotel, good enough, sleep

579 – registered for Dalai Lama speech, walked to Bagsu waterfall, relaxed there for a while, had moms on the way back, shaved my 4.5 month beard (grown since halloween), had a lot of difficulty, rest, then went to find dinner, met with other group of people, peace cafe?, chatting, went to have beer and dessert, terrible chocolate custard

580 – Met group for breakfast, after they registered went on hike in Bagsu direction, 4 dogs followed us (hoppy, Paul, Indy, Gloria), took it slow, got to waterfall, after rock scrambling found snow, relaxed, drank some river water (maybe bad idea), small snowball fight, back, got a little lost with Katrin, rejoined, odd Maxican dinner, very hungry so ate a lot, back, Katrin and I fell behind because of her knee, took care of her, stayed in

581 – morning met others, bought radio, went to temple, radio station hard to find, listened to Dalai Lama speak, sat in place where he walked right by as he was leaving, a kid ran at him and bodyguard threw the kid flying backwards, got necklace of marigolds, went back to room, went out to tourist office to register, sent to Liaison officer, sent to Dharmsala’s Superintendant of Police, went there, 4 forms and photocopies of everything, luckily had 4 passport photos, waited 3 hours, back, met Katrin on the way back to the room, had a nap, went out to dinner with crazy German driving a bus around named Peter, back, sleep

582 – Wifi fail, information from information office, walked to Dharmkot with Katrin, she checked out her Vissipanda training center, playground and seesaw, slow walk back, nap, gave K a massage, went out to India place for dinner, internet, back and sleep

583 – Goodbye to Katrin, ATM, jeep to Dharmsala, walked to SP office, puri breakfast, registered, bus to Kangra, met Hem Raj, old ex-serviceman and ex-bodyguard for Dalai Lama, chai at his home, walked me to the train station, he was extra-hospitable, train ride, other guy Baljeet sat next to me, window acted like guillotine on my arm, last minute got train from Pathankot to Ambala, crammed into compartment, army guy chatted with me and some other punk kids

584 – Ambala in the early morning, stood in line for a long time, got the ticket, got on the wrong train, ended up in a city I didn’t know, no one would help me and got really upset, bought another ticket, got to chandigarh, rickshaw to bus station (but guy kept on delaying so had to switch to another), left luggage at cloak room, walked to Nek Chand Rock Garden, large and surreal but too much concrete, ice cream, swings, Gujarati couple, walked back through mansion neighborhood, just got bus to Jaipur, they used currency notes as bus tickets with the seat number written down, on the way saw a barber shaving a man’s armpit, long journey through Delhi to Jaipur, spent the whole day not saying my name

585 – Arrived in Jaipur around 4am, stored luggage, walked around the old city, magnificent at that time, very quiet, didn’t see some things because closed, rice, chai, station, booded? bus to Ajmer, left, arrived in Ajmer, bus to Pushkar, tourism center, guy showed me nice hotel, stayed, walked around a bit after lunch, slept for a while, internet cafe earlier, looked for normal clothes

586 – Mar 19 – Met Mia from Aland and girl from Auroville, walked around, fixed camera, walked along ghat, relaxed in shade, tourism office again, reserved train Jodhpur to Jaisalmer, separated, agreeing to meet later, used hotels wifi, listened to podcasts, went out to meet Mia for dinner, had difficulty finding a place, Raju’s on way back big bonfire, had juice? earlier… then time for sleep, bought shirt and undershirt

587 – met for breakfast, kids hit me in the face with water balloon, then other kids started to put all sorts of colors on my face, by the time we got to breakfast i was cover, walked a bit on the street getting more colors, then went to the main square, loud techno, color, bought bags, played holly little violent, finished, coffee, then back to the hotel, shower, still color after shower, walked up nearby mountain temple for a good view, back, met Mia at hotel, watched sunset from roof, dinner, sleep

588 – got 7am bus to Jodhpur, got there at 12, luggage stored at train station, walked to clock tower, bought undershirt, market, artist school guy with picture of bill murray, walked to fort, beautiful view, audio tour, very nice, blue city, then to mausoleum, nice marble, then back to watch tower, internet and omelet man, back to station, got back, read in waiting room, train mostly full of tourists, sleep (jaisal view guy)

589 – 5 am arrived in Jaisalmer, walked to Jaisal View, attacked by dogs, slept in “dorm”, breakfast outside fort, chai, checked out many tours, didn’t like Jaisal View’s, guy in pink turban, 5 Rs soda, whisky, rose, walked around fort, Ganesh Travels, went to tourism office, then lake, catfish, walked back, a little lost, beautiful decorated houses and mansion, back, work on bag, chat with people, owner took me aside for a chat, watched sunset angry, dinner at the Trio

590 – checked out, stored luggage and had breakfast at Ganesh hotel, led to meeting spot, met Erika and Bernie, drove by jeep out to desert, got on camels, romanian guy, rode camels, riding slow grumpy simon, simon wiped his nose on my pants, village, rest, lunch, siesta, birds, mice, many animals, then another village with evil kids trying to get presents, store, holly colored bird, continued, got to sand dunes, walked around, hare, antelope, dogs, sheep, goats, camels, etc. relaxed, dinner, not feeling well, chat, watching stars, satellites and shooting stars. fell asleep, terrible stomach pain, moon view WC, sand tp, beetle attack

591 – still felt bad, 1 toast, got back on camels, different camels, crybaby, peacock gliding, saw small tornados, rest at riverbed, lunch and sleep and read, ride again back to village, jeep, to Ganesh Hotel, split up with Bernie, shower and sleep, dinner with Erika, Bernie, Megan at Shanti and a Romanian guy, back, sleep

592 – stomach a bit better, relax, read book, ate breakfast, chat, went out for internet?, went to bus station got on bus with bernie and megan, nice sleeper compartment but dirty, kid trying to get in my compartment, weird cricket guy “I like cricket”, trying to follow road signs, sleep

593 – got to Udaipur, rickshaw with others to Lal Ghat Guesthouse (tried to take us to wrong one), dorm, sleep, breakfast and chatting, walked around city, tourist info, map [saw lake palace and planned by view on peninsula], railway station, sunset view point, film crew, old abandoned viewpoint, back to GH but met Baltimore, dinner at Anna’s, chocobar, back, chat, read, sleep, internet

594 – after fried dough thing breakfast, chat, rented bike, Ahar mausoleums, then Fateh Sagar Lake, didn’t think Nehru Island was worth it, maaza stop, back to GH, City Palace Museum, not great, back and relaxed, internet, groceries, shave, [finished book in morning, Kurt Vonnegut short stories], couple people went out to get dinner, not expensive place, back and sleep

595 – Internet, journal, rented other bike, rode to base of Monsoon Palace, wrong way, other wrong way, didn’t want to pay for entrance, biked back, soda shop, sat around, cooking next day, read book, played cards, went out with people to watch Octopussy, back to sleep

596 – read book, went to railway station again to reserve ticket, lost on way there, could only get V->M ticket, walked back, relaxed, internet, at 5 went to cooking class, learned chai, chapati, lassi, paneer, masala, and more, delicious but couldn’t finish, lasted 5 hours, back, chat, and cards, met Quynh

597 – checked out, relaxed in hotel, played cards with people, moved to another guesthouse and played more cards, some food, moved to restaurant, watched India vs Pakistan cricket match, more food, lost ball, deep chat with Quynh, back to Lal ghat to chill more and get ready, rickshaw with chinese girl and Q, to bus station, walked to train station, got on train, nice chat with Q

598 – Arrived with Q in Agra, rickshaw to shanti lodge, late-ish, lunch, called Karen and Paula, relax a bit more with Q (rejected), goodbye, walk to Amar Villas, palace, beautiful, met K+P, they got settled in room, went out to Taj Mahal, guide weird, not amazing but nice, rushed through center, weak sunset, back, performance on back balcony, amazing dinner, drama catch up, walked back, found postcard

599 – April 1 – Checked out, 50 Rs luggage storage APRIL FOOLS, walked around for breakfast, really dirty, fried thick purr and good chai, no post office, walked to main post office, took me back behind cage, 0.86 kg for 525 Rs + 50 Rs packaging, tourist office, walk bcd, thali, park, bats, annoying kid, to hotel, drinks on suniya place roof, good view, walk to train station via park, late, got on

600 – arrived in Gaya, walked to “bus”, 10 Rs rickshaw to ?, 20 Rs rickshaw to Bodh Gaya, walked to Bowl of Compassion, nice to see everyone and met michael, nick, lair, photo of everyone, pushed into shower with 6 boys to help them distribute shampoo, hung around chatting, went out to market, bought pasta, lasso, etc, back, made some good pasta, relax, washed dog (earlier), UNO party in Lara’s room

601 – sunday, no kids, tried to make coffee, washed some clothing, (still dirty), walk to resort, tractor across dry river, weird resort, artificial rain, swimming, chat with SuHlyan, wind storm, weather weird, back worked a little on posterized things, Murari went to get elephants, elephant ride to school performance, met minister of Bihar, marigold necklaces, VIP seasts, watched performances, odd and amateur but entertaining, dinner, back, UNO

602 – Sri Lanka coffee, children needed food but Shushma wasn’t there, market with Murari, worked hard to make mashed potatoes and mashed carrots for kids, they didn’t like it, own lunch, relaxed and nap?, check Nik’s photos, at night went out for lassi, waited outside internet cafe with Happy (dog), Mahobodhi temple with Nic, found leaf, back, SuHlyan left?

603 – Went to market with Murari to get ingredients, waited at some place with a guy unbending rods, then bending squares of rods, went back to market for Samosa and laminate leaf, back, helped with food for kids, pancake things, Argentina guy, finished, lunch for ourselves, laundry shocked self 2 times, pens, internet cafe, etc, tried to get iPod software and other stuff on computer, back, set computer to download, ricket, cooking with Nick while waiting for Michael, Lara got dinner, made great pasta, drank, UNO, India vs Sri Lanka

604 – Morning transfered songs and pictures, said bye, Biru walked me to bus station, got ticket, bus, 5 hours not 3, got to Patna, walked through huge bus park, found bus to Raxaul, met Kevin, Scottish guy, bought bad crackers and mango juice, water, left late, terrible ride, road full of potholes

605 – Arrived in Raxaul, really bumpy, walked to border, got ther ebefore scottish in rickshaw, checked out of India, crossed, checked into Nepal, $40, got jeep ride, hit motorcycle, waited for them to sort that, windy bumpy road to KTM, dropped us off 6 km away from where we wanted to go, taxi, horrible, stopped to fix engine, dropped friend off, didn’t know place, paid only 200 rs almost caused scene in Durbar Square, looked for hotel, Himalayan, meet later, internet, sandwich, shower, nap, woke at 11 pm, missed meeting, sleep

606 – woke, walked around Thamel, no cheaper guesthouse, back, went out to tourist center, no laundry, breakfast, got nice map, went down to immigration center, submitted passport for extension, tea, walked back briefly, tower, then Kumari Palace, kumar, walk back, got passport, walked to patan, doughnut, durbar square patan, walked around old town, back for another doughnut, apple crumble at snowman, shower, dinner, sleep

607 – updated a bit of journal, walked to meet Charlotte, united books, met C at HImalayan Java, great breakfast, catch up, headed to Boudha, got in for free, back, juice, walked around market area, famous lassi, walked around more, back to HJ, met her coworker, chatted philosophy, and stuff, then said bye, back to hostel, apple pie at snowman, back to room, sleep early because no power, drink ?an

608 – morning, got toast omlete, walk to Swayambhu, not so interesting, back, then to Tourist Center, applied for TIMS card and entry permit to Annapurna, some info too, tried to find restaurant with wifi, not so great, bad Dal Bhat, (lost), back and relax, south indian food

609 – Indian visa office, print new passport photos, Iowa girl and Israeli girl, no problem with re-entry but had to come back, walk back with Tara, lassi, agree to meet later, went to get books at United, gumi bears, back, internet, met Asli Jamel, showed me slideshow, talked, met tara, met Toby (swiss guy met in Kerala), walked with Tara to visa office, taxi back because she was not feeling well, lost books, waited for Asli, ?, met in snowman, chatted in room, back, sleep

610 – Met Asli for breakfast, walked to bus station, bus to Bhaktapur, bus to Nagarkot, walked around, prices, all full for New Years, Noritake’s 200, relax there, rain, hail, stayed in, read Old Man and the Sea, good sunset, sleep very early

611 – April 13th – Up at 4:30, walked with Japanese guy to viewpoint, got there just in time for sunrise, walk back, rain, tea place, stuck, drew pictures with little kid (B something), bus back, umbrella, no other guesthouse sto stayed at Noritake, told Nirvana people I’d be back later, nap, photos, football team, Baba crutch guy, develop photos of team, watched game, back, lunch, read, relax, Karan came by, drinking, Nirvana, New Year 2068, more drinking, Matchenckgi (explitive in nepalese), drunk, singing, dog?, back

612 – woke, packed, apricot tea, walked to Nirvana but guys asleep, postcards from kids, Japan photos with Noritake’s, Karan and Galaxy Hotel breakfast, bus to Bhaktapur, traffic, cafe with sheets, didn’t sneak in, bye, looked for guesthouse, full or expensive, Big Bell last hope, emergency room, shower, laundry, lunch, bought Abe Tshirt, walk to Khalnatole festival, drunks at temple, pull down phalus “lingo”, crown, momos, read, relax

613 – breakfast, walked around bhaktapur, sex wood carvings, pottery square, squares, lake, ATM, tourist info, postcard, back, pot of tea and update journal, reading, momos, met spanish girls, went out with them, large curd, walked around squares at night, back, sleep

614 – early bus to gongabu, bus to Gorkha, more expensive than expected dropped off in Gorkha, searched a few hotels, Milan for 200, momos at local guy’s place, hiked up to palace, entrance fee so waited until tomorrow, followed long path down, ice cream, coke, other place for chow mein, back, felt bad, sleep after read

615 – early morning hiked up to gorkha palace, no ticket man, hiked past to temple up on hill, sat, back down, paid entrance fee, relaxed, lunch at local guy place, suggested palace museum, could not get change, finally got change, museum, walked around grounds, back, reading on rooftop, sunset, dinner at local guy’s place

616 – early bus from Gorkha to Dumre, ate omelete and tea, hiked 7 km up road (not old trail), to Bandipur, as I got ther eit started to rain, Bandipur Guesthouse, nice view, nap, walked around town, Nepali kitchan, buffalo momos, batteries, walked up mountain, kids shepharding goats went with me, playing around, met photographer, down mountain, wifi at place, dinner dhal bat, back, read, sleep (earlier a lame sunset)

617 – breakfast, walked around town taking photos, went back to get cave stuff, hiked out to the cave after rain, no rain but slippery, refused guide and flashlight, alone in cave, really fantastic feeling, flashlight dim but ligher lite bright, smelled bad, dark, echos, explored, went down crevice, bat freaked me out, went back, irish girls, also in cave, out together, back, wifi, met girls for dinner, nice then off to bed (earlier, cold dark shower)

618 – Clear morning, great weather so ran out to fig tree area to take photos of himalayas, met Nick and Cortney for breakfast, walked down Bandipur Old Trail, absolutely beautiful, from Dumre got bus to Pokhara, ripped off but beautiful ride on top of bus, Pokhara, walked to Ashiq’s place, other CSers leaving, couch surfed with Ashiq, walked around Pokhara, bought Dune, very touristy, back, pizza with Ashiq and friends, visited other shop, Irish girls, dinner, mosquitos in room at night

619 – woke, breakfast with Ashiq and father, laundry, went out to market, great doughnuts, bought food (peanuts, meat things, etc), water bottle, shoes, came back, lunch went out to research renting things, wrote down prices, bought fleece, hat, talked with israeli, back, dinner at Ashiq’s sleep, more mosquitos

620 – laundry back, missing underwear, bus to bus park, umbrella, bus, tried to rip me off, dumre for 100, another bus tried to rip me off, Beshisahar, great momos, TIMS, began hiking 1:50, khudi, bhulbule, checked in with Entry, hiked, got to Khudi at 4:45, second place stayed, relax, read, fried macaroni, sleep

621 – woke at 6, Tibetan Bread with cheese, hiking, fast, goat licked salt off arm, long walk, lunch met couple from Jaisalmer, Alex and Piere, landslide closed trail, long way, arrived in Tal around 3:45, shower, updated journal, read book, dinner met Danish Ina, veg curry and chicken noodle soup

622 – Hike with Ina and porter, steep uphill climbs, started at 7, regular stops, sharing peanuts, lunch – small garlic onion omelet, arrived in Chame, found place with room for food, got apple pie reward with local wine (apple pie AMAZING), cold shower, reading, nap, dinner – potato veg fried, great, tibetan tea, then just relax and sleep, ate a bit of the meat stuff

623 – up early, wait for Tsampa porridge and change, pit of sour mood, left before Ina and porter, pretty good pace, at stop hurt foot on rock, bandaged, (left umbrella), at Lower Pisang arrived early so left, went to Humde, really beautiful and relaxing, stopped, apple pie and local beer, read book, walked around, hot bucket shower, potato curry and macaroni, read, sleep, cold

624 – April 26th – Up at 6, veg noodle soup breakfast, short 2 hour walk, shoes on for first part because cold, arrived in Manang at 9 am, guesthouse, walk around, apple crumble, hiked up to viewpoint, relaxed, read, met Alex and Pier again, watched kids play, apple crumble and chat with A&P, umbrella found, 50 Rs, yak cheese, fried momos, more updating, read, sleep

625 – big breakfast, started hiking at 7:30, slow tiring rise to Thorong Phedi, guesthouse, apple pie, read, relax, met group of Americans, chatted, played crossword game, veg fried potatoes, cold, planned to get up with group, sleep, headache maybe altitude sickness

626 – Up at 5, stood in cold waiting after breakfast, left at 5:40, very steep climb, dead horse, rest at high camp, up through snow to pass, long slow exhausting hike, finally made it, small party at top, Thorung Pass, long steep descent, knees hurt, rest at Chamabu, down to Muktinath, great shower, yak ravioli, curry, read, relax, party at night with Americans, curry bad, read, finished Dune

627 – started walking at 7:20, long dusty road, big hawks, guy measuring pie slices, skipped Ka, found 2 fossils in dried riverbed, internet and lunch in Jomsom, windy walk to Marpha, apple pie, gave away Dune, windy walk to Tukuche, black river, guesthouse, shower, walk around, spring roll and noodle soup, sleep

628 – walked further along river, knee started to hurt, stopped in Ghasa because of knee, recharged iPod, nothing to do, chat with Australian Jess about steel factories, relax and read, sleep early, good french onion soup

629 – Knee hurt a lot, breakfast then left, tornado info at permit check, walk downhill, very painful, lost map in village, made way down river, stopped at Tatopani, lunch, Krishna boy manager, Hot springs, relax, read, wrote postcards, cider, swiss roastie

630 – Day of rest, porridge and grilled cheese, read, nice view, slept, apple brandy, hot springs, met others, Jesse, Rick, Rodney, etc, stayed in hot springs for a while, heard about Osama’s death, back, dinner, lots of rain, no one meeting for beers, knee hurt whole day, read Captain Blood

631 – Early morning headed off, hiked a little with Jess, knee still giving problems, fell behind, hiking up and up, went wrong way shortly, through mountain towns, didn’t stop very much, got to Gorepani, very uphill, relax and nap, read Captain Blood, chatting and dinner with people, 3 servings of Dal Bhat, sitting around fire

632 – hiked up to Poon Hill, nice view, flip flops, sunrise, down, breakfast, out late, knee was terrible, descent, Ulleri to T was straight down 2 km, sometiems walked with Rich, hell and hurt pride to be passed, bottom, straight-ish to Birethani with Rich, stayed, apple pie, Julius Ceasar, relax, land bridge construction, sleep

633 – breakfast, Nayapul, bus to Pokhara, on roof, walk to Lakeside, Sacred Valley Inn for 450, no power, Beigh’s place, relax and chat, returned sleeping bag, couldn’t find passport (in backpack), back, shower, relax, sleep, dinner at Everest Steak house with Frank, Rich, Jesse, Danish girl

634 – breakfast at hotel, went down to Ashiq’s and spent most of the day there, Chinese group buying shawls, relaxed, lunch and dinner with Beighs, something like that

635 – first went to cyber cafe, posted photos (tried to), went to souvernir shops writing down prices, Tibetan woman, walked all around, pizza lunch, Beigh’s, relaxed, group dinner, back to hotel, rain

636 – Walked up lakeside, breakfast fried rice donut, walk to market, ATM 15k, candy?, headphones, bag, fabric for suit, walked back to lakeside via airport, pants at bus stop, beigh’s, relaxed, realized pants were way too small, watched movie upstairs, down, bought shawls and other things, took fabric to tailor’s, chilled at Ashiq’s, walked to other shop, tea, back, late dinner, back

637 – May 9th – Up, 100 Rs breakfast and people, walked to bus park for ATM, bus back, squeezed on bus, souveniers at Tibettan lady’s shop, shower, apple cruble, Bill and Rena, more souvenirs, podcasts, update journal, rain, walk to North Lakeside, met with Bill and Rena, dinner at Laughing Buddha with Frank, back and sleep

638 – breakfast next door, bus to prithivi chowk, atm, walk back, hung out at Beigh’s, lunch, bough more shawls, took big bag back to hotel, relax, chicken curry lunch, oreos and beer, reading, rain, next door place for dinner, internet

639 – breakfast next door, strike so nothing open, chat with other guests, relax, update journal, stayed inside relaxing, down to Ashiq’s, chill, picked out more presents, dinner and back

640 – no strike, breakfast?, down to Ashiq’s for umbrella, on boat, rowed along West side, to north end, read book, fought wind, stopped for water and beer, more drinking in boat and relaxing with music, started to rain, back, shower, reserve bus, down to Ashiq’s stayed for a bit, Japanese Restaurant

641 – strike day, breakfast at guesthouse, down to Ashiq’s, hung out, small lunch, back up, mapo dofu, souveniers, coffee with israeli, music, dorma’s shop, necklace, bye, guesthouse briefly, chat with people, shave, back to ashiq’s, dinner, chilling with Ashiq, night, back, tailor and chicken guy

642 – 6:00 got to Ashiq’s, picked up shirt, goodbye, bus at 7:15, long ride, hard to sleep, bus to border alright, crossed with no problems, even changed money with no problems, another bus smooth ride but asshole Indians, re-realized how much I dislike the country, popcorn for dinner

643 – Arrived in Varanasi at 3:30 AM, train station, couldn’t keep bags without lock, sat around, bicycle rickshaw to buddha hotel, too expensive, nothing, autorickshaw back, went around station area, no rooms, angry, heavy bags with souveniers, some guy took me on a wild goose chase, really angry, pouted in station, auto driver came to talk, MK guesthouse, helped with computers, sunglasses and undershirt run with kid, got him glasses, walked around ghats, south indian food, back, openning business, 2nd shower, sleep, read, repacked

644 – up, taxi scam, angry, only 20 Rs ripped off but principle, 50 Rs bike taxi to station, broke umbrella, gave to guy, train, chinese neighbors, finished Dune Messiah, relaxed, nice last sunset, laid down to sleep, Chinese left, indians arrived, annoying, sleep

645 – long grumpy morning, bags got wet, indians leaning on bags, finally became a bit friendly, sold $1 bill, chai, drank so much water, arrived at CST, stored luggage after buying locks, 2 lunches, out shopping, great last deals, train to Andheri, weird “boxing” guy also with type 1 syndactyle, taxi to airport, waited outside check in

646 – Plane to Bahrain, got some bahrain money, plane to London, plane to Boston, brother picked me up

 

 

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